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Those are through bolts with a nut. LDT/S rods use a blind threaded hole. That's why a stud might work.

I'm not seeing a huge reason why a stud couldn't be used. But... Unless studs in the appropriate size and strength are commonly available for some other application, we are back to the expense of a "custom" fastener(s).

It would depend on the profile of the bottom of the rod's threaded hole, because the stud "bottoms out" when it is installed. Why do you think it would need to be tapped out to a larger size? If the stud can bottom on a uniform seat, the existing threads should be fine I would think. As long...

GM uses studs on the rods in the 383 stroker kits. They don't seem to have issues. Edit: If you try studs, remember the torque values will be different for different thread pitches and lubes!

That failure was a hydrolocked motor... not a rod or bolt issue. The 12pt bolt still keeps it's good name on that case, at least.

There were a few other threads on rod bolt failures, but nothing I have seen that had this info and certainly no mention of two different style bolts with a failed one, good failed, and new "beefier" style. Great find and thread! I remember a few folks with resources to test bolts who were...