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You'll know very quickly if the direction you turn it is the direction you want. :-D

It everything is working the way it should, R17 should be able to raise the output voltage to get the panel adjustment in range. Center the front panel knob and adjust R17 until the voltage is where you like it. Be careful, since there is plenty of 120V floating around in the control cabinet.

Definitely something to consider.

Yes, I see what I did wrong. P. 8-1 of TM5-6115-584-34 says to do what you did. I was looking at the terminal numbers on diode board A4, not TB3 when I said to use terminal 4 and 5. I'm glad you followed the procedure correctly.

Connecting battery + to terminal 4 and battery - to terminal 5 would send current through the exciter field, but I think I would apply it directly at the field side of unplugged J12 through a resistor if I were doing the test. Connecting a battery to terminals 5 and 6 would not give desirable...

If you're getting only 1.3V at that terminal during cranking, then you need to look at the schematic on p. 1-9 of TM5-6115-585-34, and figure out what's not passing 24V to that terminal. If you can crank the engine, it's getting to TB4-3. Then it has to go through a couple connectors, so maybe...

The rotating diodes get their input from the exciter rotor. The exciter rotor generates its power from rotating in the exciter field. On startup, the exciter field is energized by the flashing circuit. This means that it would be logical to verify that the flashing circuit is working before...

I don't think it is necessary to flash the field for an extended time, but it is necessary that it gets flashed during starting. Make sure you see something like 10V on the field while you crank. If you do, it's time to move on to the next possible problem.

The exciter field resistance is 36 ohms. With a 24V supply in series with a 50 ohms resistor, the field voltage should be around 10V during flashing. As I said above, my 003A will not flash the field once the engine is up to speed, no matter how much I hold the switch in the start position. I...

I was thinking you could unscrew the strain relief and back shell from the 3-pin connector J12 and just hold the meter probes on the back ends of the two active pins, but I don't remember if that's easy to do on that type of connector. Anything that allows you to read the voltage on the exciter...

As I said ^ it's a resistor, and it's the obvious big thing that's not one of the six small diodes. To see if the flashing circuit is working, you measure the voltage on the exciter field when you're cranking the engine. You could do that at J12, which is the connector with two wires on the...

Just a minor point, but the rectifier board (A4) has one resistor that should measure about 50 Ohms, and six diodes. The resistor limits the flashing current, so you're right, it has to be intact.

Bad rotating diodes could cause the problem, as could a bad CVT1, or one or more bad diodes in the rectifier board A4. Of course any of the wiring or connectors that carry field current from CVT1 to the generator could be the problem too. J12 is on the back of the cabinet that houses CVT1, the...

The CR devices are diodes. They are very inexpensive and simple to replace. You can use any of the 1N400X series. Even the highest voltage version, the 1N4007, rated at 1A and 1000V is a few cents at Mouser. You can test them by unsoldering one end and using the diode test function of a...

Configure the jumpers as shown in the diagram of the TM for 60 Hz use and try it. If the voltage adjust pot is off, all it will do is skew the range of the panel pot, so you can center the panel pot and adjust the board's voltage pot to reach the correct setting. Don't worry about the...