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I'm thinking maybe a flow controller instead of pressure regulator.... That way you can keep the strength but slow the motion.

Here is a video of it plumbed and working. Just have to mount the cylinder and hook it to the lever. This cylinder is freaking strong. Way stronger then a normal push would be. I'm stoked how this is turning out. http://youtu.be/ydQHP4cgtuw

I got a parker valve from work. We use them on lift axles. It's parker #520511000.

So I got the valve today and it's going to work perfect..... the other valve for the transfer case will mount right on top of other valve perfectly. Need a few more fittings and I'll be golden

Ok so now that I've found what valve your using that is what makes your system work. I have the road ranger shift knob and the A5000 valve is the missing link to make this work with a dual acting cylinder. I can't do It with my valves cause they won't let the cylinder exhaust from both sides...

What kinda of slave valve did you use..... I'm still trying to figure this out how you did that. I have been pondering this for awhile. I can't do it with my valves cause when it's plumbed to be NC and then switched to open the NC circuit doesn't vent pressure.

Hmmmmmm I wonder if I can use my pilot valves to do that.... basically you have a single throw dual pole air relay.

So on the one side of the dual acting cylinder you have a constant pressure of 50 psi and when switched to the other side you have full pressure to over come the 50 psi? Also I'm curious to see your exhaust brake setup too

Lol no ill cut it off like a stub shaft

Yes I have no need for neutral unless being towed. Also I see no need for a regulator. The cylinder is rated for way more them 120 psi and if the throw is measured correctly then it should work perfectly without binding the transfer case. This is also why I want to use the lever now. My first...

Nah you guys are over thinking it..... the spring is only going to pull back till the cylinder stops. It won't be pulling on the lever forcing or holding it in high range. The cylinder will be mounted so the lever is where it is supposed to be. Also as I wrote before I'm not putting in a neutral...

I think it's going to work great. The front lock won't be a problem since it's already air operated and I just changing the switch. The hi/lo will be the challenge but I think I can get it to work.

I got the fittings today and the line and cylinder should be here tomorrow. I'm going to do it a little different then what I wanted to. Idk if the cylinder will fit in the tunnel above the transfer case but I'm hoping it will. If not I'm going to put it in the cab and enclose it like the...

I surely will.... probably continue more in a few weeks as the bed comes off and the truck gets re plumbed

Ok so the shifter came today..... looks great and fits my hand even better then the ball I have. It will need to be modified internally because the side red switch is for the high range splitter and won't let me engage 4x4 with the front switch in the low range position. Easy enough though just...

I don't really see a need for neutral in the transfer case. Atleast not in my truck. I don't have a pto winch and never plan on it. I don't even know how that works or if the transfer case would need to be in neutral for it to work.

True didn't think of that. Those are easy enough we use them at work on trailers in the air lift bags on a steerable lift axle.

So yesterday I had the deuce out in the evening at my wife's relatives and her one uncle said to me something very cool and interesting. He's been a truck driver for many years. He said about using a eaton fuller 13 spd shift knob on the truck and using the air switches to control the Hi/Low...