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I run mine thru the devils triangle and pull logs and houses apart with it. Not to mention I allow both my sons to drive it. If you are looking for steel engine oil cooler lines I never seen them. If you are talking transmission cooler lines I agree. I never run any rubber lines on my trucks for...

Number9 in post # 35 has the right idea. And it seems that most of you guys like cost savings. I have made these oil cooler lines like this. I prefer black hose but same idea and same function. The first set I made I wrapped in white paper towels and wire tied them fast. I drove the truck...

It will work. The barbs are in place and the clamps are doing the same thing as the crimped ends.

Worst case scenario attach the line to the bracket with a short piece of perforated pipe strapping. Or use a hose clamp to attach it to the bracket. It is not what I would do if I did not have to. But in case I did have to I would make it work and make it look good at the same time. Like I said...

Just bend the aluminum line away from any contact parts. Ever so gently and you will be good as gold. They are not precision pieces. You make them fit and fluid runs thru them. I use all the clamps and still use zip ties to keep them where I want them away from any moving parts.

You should not need to ruin them at the engine block. The adapters into the block are brass. They are very tight. I would recommend a good 7/8" or 22mm line wrench. Even if you have to borrow the good line wrench. When I say good I am talking a Snap-on or a MAC. Don't waste your time with a...

When I did my hose change to the CUCV I took the trusty grinder and ground thru the crimps and the tubes had barbs on the ends. I just slipped the hoses on and the ends and used the spring clamps that I purchased at the air compressor parts store and the air / oil hose they use on industrial...

That will work every time. Good old American ingenuity. I done it to several CVPI Fords that had leaking lines. Fords answer was $300. + It ended up costing about $25. in parts.