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Nice. If you find yourself doing a lot of ends, you might save yourself some time and use electronics solder-paste. For example this 5-tube pack has a Tin/Lead solder with a no-clean flux at about $10/tube. Squirt a little in the connector before you shove the cable in and it saves you the...

I read you on the easy/cheap/"good-eough" points. I have a few compression-type that I keep in my truck should I have a cable problem, but in 15 years I've only ever used them to help others who had the clamp-type fail on them. I'd personally caution that they are not "fool-proof", and much of...

I measured this morning, the holes in the ends are about 3' (36") from the back of the slave port. Again, probably enough to go to the batteries, but not enough to go to the bus on the firewall (not that I'd recommend that anyway).

It should also be noted that you aren't guaranteed a good contact with the entire cross-section of the cable with a nut-compression fitting. I have trouble shot many car stereos in my day, and most of the cars that have or had compression/camp-on fittings had bad heat marks around the...

If it's not tinned copper, and oil/water/temperature rated, I'll pass. I'm dead set on UL 1426 Marine Primary or Type-W Mining wire for my automotive projects.

I recall the cables being about 2' (24") long, I can measure tonight, or you can shoot clitogf a PM. Should be enough to go to the batteries, but I don't think it'll make it to the bus bars.

clintogf has NOS slave ports pre-terminated with 1/0 cable. I bought a few from her about a month ago. Probably cheaper/easier than doing the work :).

What's the construction/type of the cable? I'd probably be in for my own 100ft roll... shoot me a PM.

If you are keeping the dual batteries and alternators under the hood, the 12V alternator removes the need for a Vanner/equalizer there. If the 24V glow plug system is working, I'd actually recommend leaving it alone. There aren't any good 24V glow plugs really available, and if you draw from...

It would be preferable to use either the pass-through flag type lug you linked from the Napa website, or to make the branch from one of the batteries (have you considered stud terminal batteries?). Doing a mid-span connection is adding two more corrosion points to your high current path...

It should also be mentioned that the type of crimper you hit with a hammer does a crappy job. Big wire and teminals need big heat to solder, a propane torch would probably do it well for you, but it will take practice.

Solder terminals may work, but they have to be done right - if it's your first time, I'd recommend finding an electrician's shop to have them do the cable ends for you. If you were local, I'd just stop by and do them for you, but it would be a drive... If you still haven't done them by May...

The fusible links in the diagram you published in the first post are meant only to protect the wiring of the alternator power lines - that's simple, no calculation required, pick a fuse at the output rating of the alternator. In the diagram, I don't like that the starter line goes through a...

I bought a Greenlee K09 cable crimper, I waited and found a used one from a pawn shop on e-place. Best $20 I ever spent there - does 8-gauge to 4/0 (0000) ends, in a nice solid hex crimp, and leaves an impression of the cable gauge in the crimp head. If a crimp is done right you get a...

You will probably have trouble sourcing specific color/stripe combinations - put-ups usually require a large order (think thousands of feet). My most prevelent complaint is the slave port cable size in relation to the main battery cable size. I also prefer fuses (not circuit breakers) to...