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210° if I recall correctly. It kicked on when it should have according to the temperature gauge.

Yes sir. I am very happy. The real test will be this coming week. 100 miles a day all week. Hopefully I have nothing new to report.

I did that as the first part of my latest test and it stayed cool. The first day I had heat issues was 35° out and running down the highway. I am hoping for the best. Tomorrow will include new coolant and another good test run.

That was my next plan of attack. They can go out without leaking I hear.

So a good trip today. I lightly sanded the thermostat and the ring it rides in and put it all back together. Refilled the system with water and drove about 20 miles and hit full highway speed. Temperature gauge rose right to 185° and stayed right there. Fan did not come on at all. Yesterday's...

Is there any known fix for it? I am thinking of hitting it with some fine sandpaper (thermostat housing and ring it rides in) to smooth it up so it can slide a little easier. Replacing it doesn't really seem like a fix for the design issue. And thank you for the confirmation.

After testing the thermostat, I got to thinking about the design of it. I am curious if the thermostat could get wedged and not open properly. It seems to be an unusual design. The body slides when it opens and I could see some junk causing it to hang closed. My original thinking is that this...

Yes, I know what you are saying. I plan on checking the block, hoses, and the radiator with an IR gun and see what is going on.

Not yet. On my list. I am sure it is getting hot though.

I was talking to the auto parts guy and he called a buddy that worked on these for years in the military. We were talking coolant, SCAs, that type of thing. His buddy started with "If we put in more than just water, add whatever you want. It doesn't really matter." Not surprising after I saw all...

A little more for an update. Flushed the system and got a ton of rust out. Refilled it with just water and gave it a little test run. Temperature still rose right up to 240°. Pulled the thermostat (just one big one on my truck) and it opened right up in a pot of boiling water. So now I move on...

On a side note, the drain on the radiator is about worthless. Taking the smaller thermostat bypass hose off by the oil cooler really let the water flow.

Yup. I had rust colored water for an hour using the hose. I disconnected everything I could and flushed from every direction possible. It was pretty bad with rust. No big chunks of anything though. I am going to run it again tomorrow and flush it again and try to get everything out possible...

I have that TM and will check it out now. Thank you.

So my worthless update. I got nothing. Refilled the reservoir with the bleed valve open. No air bled out. No pressure coming back into the reservoir either upon starting. I did not drive it though, just let it idle for a half hour. Nothing out of the ordinary happened. Minor bubbles came out...

I did but it all falls apart without access to the WPs. Are those available somewhere or buried in the TMs somewhere?

Running it with the tank drains open was exactly what I had in mind to test the shutterstat or any other air pressure in the system issues. I still need to narrow it down from air pressure or a head gasket/ combustion chamber pressure issue. If the air pressure issue does stop by opening the...

No, I did not bleed it. I know about the valve but didn't even think about it. I think the shutterstat will be my main objective to test. Pumping air into the coolant system makes sense at this point. The coolant started to run as soon as I started it up this morning, immediately upon the tanks...

I think that will be the last thing I try.[emoji6]

I didn't see anything like that in the TMs. My thermostat housing didn't match the picture either. I will have to check again. Maybe what I saw was for the engine in the a1 (NC250 or whatever). Thanks for the info.