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I bought this nice stainless steel sprayer and it works great to bleed the brakes. I usually let the brake fluid gravity bleed for a 1/2 hour then put the pressure can on to finish the job. Saves a ton of brake fluid this way.

There is actually a special oil the military uses. It costs about $15.00 a quart and you must buy it in 5 gallon buckets. I tried to find a civilian equivalent but there is none available. In all mine I just use Synthetic grease. It works great. They also make the grease in a spray form.

This little blurb is from a modern brake manufacturer "HydraTechBraking" . Even today they say gravity bleeding is the best.

Actually the manuals I was referring to are from the 1980's. Not that old really. I still remember my training instructors from VoTec school saying "Gravity Bleeding" done right was a better way of bleeding brakes since air didn't get trapped in pockets by the force of pressure bleeding. So...

Actually gravity bleeding is a valid way of bleeding brakes. Many early shop manuals list this as a valid process. Shops don't do it this way due to time (time is money) but it will work. The small air bubbles will naturally work their way out to the highest place. This is usually the master...

The first picture shows the two styles of the hydraulic valve that pushes the air valve. The second picture shows the air valve and housing. The third picture shows the bore the hydraulic valve goes in. The main reason there is brake fluid in the air chamber is because of this valve. This valve...

When you push the master cylinder it applies pressure to a little valve that goes up and opens an air valve. The air valve then sends the air to the back of the air chamber (can) and applies the air piston which pushes the brake rod pressurizing the brakes fluid.