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And we're good. 28.1V, positive rate of charge. Yippie. Thanks everyone.

Yeah, new one of those on order. We'll see how that goes.

Well, it was more than a 30 minute job, but inexperience. So all the positive diodes were good, 2 on the negative side had no resistance at all from either direction. So replaced the negative half. (Turns out I'd ordered spare parts a few months ago.) Re-mounted the alternator, hooked it up...

I'm hoping for 4 bad diodes. The math works for that to explain 9.2VDC given the voltage on the inspection sticker. (28.1V) What I need to do I just realized his hook the scope up the just the alternator with the batteries removed and see what that 9.2V looks like before I pull it off.

I got this one with dead batteries and 76 hours on it, which makes me suspect infant mortality on some part of the alternator. (Feb 2012 reset, alternator with a 2011 QA inspection sticker on it.) I'll be pulling the alternator off soon as I get a chance and tearing it apart.

Ok, been a while on this, but finally got time to look at it more. (Plus, I plum forgot with a bunch of other stuff happening) The wiring all looks right. I unhooked the positive from the alternator and measured from ground to the positive wires, 27V before starting. So they seem to have...

New to me. ~70 hours post 2012 rebuild. Came with dead batteries.

Sure. I'll preface by saying this was with a cheap multi-meter. I'll have a good one tonight to look at this again. Labels are from what it looks like the sticker on the alternator is pointing to... (Why there are two POS arrows, confusing) NEG->POS: ~25vdc NEG->POS: I can also get ~50vac...

My 803 is showing discharge when running, and reading ~25 vdc charging. Read a thread about rebuilding the rectifier, but before I unsolder all that, there a way to tell if that's what's wrong? The AC tap is reading ~50 vac, which seems too related to the 25vdc on the charging circuit to be a...