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Well i I thought I did but I may have had my multimeter on the wrong setting. Figuring out how to use that is half the battle.

I think I got it narrowed down to the alternator. I removed it and am going to have it checked. Will let you know the verdict.

That's a good idea. Could I also use just one battery, somehow attaching 2 + cables on one post and using a C-clamp attach the 2 - cables together and run my amp meter between the - battery post and the 2 neg cables that are clamped together?

Yes, batteries hold a charge. I've had the batteries disconnected and not on any charger for 32 or so hours. It even got below freezing last night. One has 12.80 volts and one has 12.82 volts.

The front battery negative cable has a small wire spliced in that grounds to the radiator support. I've seen this before on other vehicles. The big negative cable from the front battery goes to the negative bus bar. The rear battery negative cable also goes to the negative bus bar. Then there's...

I will ill try disconnected the starter next. That's a good idea. Since the 12 volt conversion, my batteries are wired in parallel not series. Both grounds on the batteries are bolted to the negative bus bar, same as the positives. So I don't think it matters which battery I test, does it? I...

I've completly disconected the alternator and there's still a draw so it has to be something else. Actually since the 12 volt conversion, the plug is not being used. Just a red wire and a ground.

Isnt the headlights and the heater fused? As soon as I pulled that fuse I would have found the problem.

I've spent hours reading the histories on this subject but still don't have it figured out yet. I know there are a lot of very smart people on here that can point me in the right direction. I have a 1984 M1028 that the state forestry department did a Roscommon 12 volt conversion on it. It now...