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So, I checked the battery and everything was good there. Almost 12 on both and 24 between them. I unhooked the battery to check the glow plugs and the first I pulled out must've been shot cause I couldn't get my multimeter to read anything. Put it back in, hooked it all back up, and voila...

I have even more questions now then I did when this post started. I guess that's part of the process of learning the ins and outs. I always thought the plug on the driver's side tunnel next to the parking brake and gear selector was a comm port. Is it that or where the STE/ICE is plugged in...

I was starting to think the same. It has 2 fairly new Optima Red Tops. When I did a search for a PCB I found this link and it seems to confirm what you guys have been saying. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?83386-HMMWV-Glow-Plug-Gospel I am really thankful for the help. This...

I had already printed out all the manuals for reference and took a look today. You are right! The flow charts make it pretty easy to diagnose problems. Thanks for the tip. Now, I get to learn myself on how to do some of this stuff.

PCB? Is that the glow plug control box?

No more than 24 hours.

Every 200 amp dual voltage alternator I've seen out there is over $1,000. An add a battery kit with acr and switch is $120 and a couple cheap batteries is $200. When I'm camping it gives me some reserve as well. Are there cheaper alternator options out there than what I've seen?

I didn't put a meter on them thinking they were fine since started. I've been looking for an excuse to buy a relocation kit and install an auxillary battery for an inverter and on board air. Now I have to convince my wife.

My M998 with a 6.2 was sitting with the light switch in the "Stop Light" position for a while and the next time I went to fire it up the "Wait" light didn't illuminate. It wasn't left on run because the brake light wasn't on, so I wouldn't think the glow plug controller was affected. I thought...