Search results

That's the way to do it, since the new one is under warranty for a couple years.

It was a long road, but you got there. :)

Well, there is that big problem of the intermittent open on CVT1's H1-H2 winding. Measuring 1/2 an ohm that way in CT1's windings is difficult. You'd be better off putting an amp though the winding and seeing if you have 0.5 volts drop across it. Or adjust a current though it to get a 1 volt...

It's academic at this point, but did you subtract the reading of the meter leads from the reading you got on the windings? That is, short the probes together, wait a few seconds, and get that reading, then subtract that from winding readings.

T2 supplies the regulator with a sample of the generator output voltage. If T2 doesn't have an output, the regulator will think the generator output is low and cut back its output to zero so no control current flows in CVT1. This should make the generator output go high if everything else is...

My money is on a bad CVT1. Without going back to read all the posts in this thread, did you measure all the windings in it and compare to the values in the TM?

The regulator will be on the way to you tomorrow morning. I had to build one for you, but I got it together and tested last night, and the conformal coating is drying now.

I don't see how those non-fastened terminals could do anything other than prevent the starter motor from running.

That's the whole point... if the regulator is what's causing no output, then disconnecting it will make the voltage go high. It's not a common failure of the regulator, but I've seen it happen if the output transistor fails shorted.

If you want to be sure the regulator isn't the problem you can disconnect the wire from terminal 17 of the regulator and with everything else is working as it should, running the generator should produce higher than normal voltage, like 170-340 volts. This is because the regulator works by...