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HMMWV dash ground image: This ground is a known problem point and is typically the cause of a lot of strange gauge readings when it loosens up or gets corroded. What I did with mine was to replace the screw with a 1" long stainless setscrew with a star washer and nut on both sides...

Keep in mind that the body of the HMMWV is not a reliable ground because of it's construction. It's not like your regular car. Your relay return line ( - ) should tie back to one of the vehicle ground points. There's one behind the heater controls or you could tie into the ground point on the...

Sorry gents, I hadn't considered the high current loading you might get with a voltage converter. Your right, in this application a relay is the best way to go. My solutions would work well for low current loads like LED lighting. As an engineer I've seen too many cobbled together nightmares...

There's no need to complicate things with a relay when it's a simple matter to feed a converter directly from a line switched by the ignition switch. When it comes to electrical circuitry the KISS principle works for non-electricians.

Same point electrically. Both of those lines are switched by the Start-Run switch.

The #54 wire to the top of the IP is powered up with the ignition switch and would be an easy place to access a switched 24 volt line for your converter. If you want to drop the instrument cluster you could pick up the +24v signal to the gauges. Tee into one of the ribbed connectors on the gauges.