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that's great advice i can easily check behind my instrument panel, the guys from the shop bolted it with a single bolt :roll: pj, you can't even buy stuff like that over here. our car aftermarket simply doesn't know "dielectric grease". what we have is battery post grease... gonna bye no-ox-id...

good point! can you tell where exactly behind the heater controls? on the firewall or in the dashboard frame?

Hey people, it's great that there's debate! and good at last we all agree about the too high current. to narrow things down i (great artist) drew two circuits... tell me what you think (also, Marcus, throw some other in here, if you have a good idea, please!)

i like that principle. but the converter (with the module) takes around 7.5 to 10A max. don't know if that ignition curcuit is capable of handling the extra load. safe before simple

alright, cool. but, is there a difference between taking it from there and taking it from the start run switch?

thanks Will, i want to use the (already bought, $ 17) converter just to draw equally off the 24V system. also, don't want extra small cables screwed to the big battery cables or terminals which is always a mess. maybe someone knows a good spot where to steal 12V on ignition. otherwise i'll use...

My HMMWV came with USShift Quick 2 transmission module hooked up to one of the 2 batteries, and manually switched on and off before and after every drive. found out: the Quick 2 must be switched, otherwise it drains the battery flat in less than one day. aua i thought that's not a good way, so...