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Lift pump is new. I'll probably end up pulling it to see if the push rod is broken. Bought the truck with a broken push rod and replaced it and the lift pump.

No smoke at all, revvs super easy. I've actually been trying to add resistance to the throttle because it's basically an on/off switch.

Normally I would just go OEM and call it a day, but seeing how annoying the problem is when these fuel lines leak, I'm shooting for as much "over-engineer" as possible.

Thought the air bubbles were gone as the truck has been running fine and starting easy for the last week, but when I revved the motor it immediately starting having trouble maintaining rpm and stalled twice while driving. RPMs definitely seem to exagerate the ingress of air from wherever the...

Not surprising then, these old steel lines had been on their way out for a while. I guess only recently the problem started to worsen.

Might have been some 2 stroke oil that could do it

On another note, does anyone know how the fuel flows inside the injector? Just out of curiosity, How does the return portion of the injector work? Does it just blow off fuel at a certain pressure, or does it constantly let fuel flow out at a very low volume?

I think I read something about the injection and lift pumps being cooled by the fuel? So I suppose the return line going to the tank is necessary to dump heat into the large volume of diesel.

Just tossin an idea around here, can't seem to find if it would even work. Why are return fuel lines sent all the way back to the fuel tank? Wouldn't it make more sense to T the return line in to the suction side of the lift pump? Or is there a problem here I'm missing?

Doesnt diesel start to cloud at 32F, and gell between 10F and 15F? All I know was the truck stalled when pulling out of the driveway at 11F. Twice At least thats what I found on the internet.

No problems in regular weather. No drain back issue either. It did take some cranking in 11F. But I didnt have a fuel heater so that may just be fuel gelling.

I have no doubt air bubbles will show up. Im just tracking down the source.

I'm trying to pin down the aproximate location for where air is getting into the system. In addition to going around checking and tightening hose clamps I also plan to add a check valve between the filter and the IP, and a manual ball valve on the main return line. I'll shut that off and leave...

Smoke test? do tell

As annoying as this whole thing is, I guess I should just bite the bullet and start replacing things. I definitely have the correct lift pump.

I would think if there was air leaking into the system, fuel is leaking out of the system. I dont see any wet spots or fuel sitting anywhere. That method does look good, but I think it would actually be easier to replace every fuel tube in the entire truck and be done with it....

Well didn't get to test my theory, cause now it wont start again! Injector lines are dry! I guess my issue is the IP? I dont understand why the fuel is draining back to the tank. Its certainly not going anywhere else. No leaks at all. Not that this might matter, but the truck is parked up...

I'm hoping that's the root of the problem. Definitely makes sense to me, low voltage=intermittent ip shut off

I guess I spoke too soon. Took it for a drive today and after about 20 minutes it was struggling to stay alive at all. I got back home and it was an awful idle, dropping almost 300 rpm then revving back to 800rpm. I took a volt meter to the batteries, and it was 11.49v! Apparently I've been...

Pretty straight forward. A bit tight getting the whole line around the frame. Thanks.