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Back on topic. I reread post #1. It stated only getting 6 volts on wire 27 to the lamp. Where was the ground lead from your multimeter during that test? 27 goes to gauges.
571 is a ground signal from the PCB. You disconnected 571 from the lamp and connected to good ground. The lamp came on and...
In a normal working system, what would the wait light do if all of the glow plugs were bad? Would it blink, or not come on, or come on for the normal time?
The last sentence in Post #51 leads me to believe the OP doesn’t want to ohm the plugs.
You dont need to remove glow plugs to test them...
A spare marker light makes a good tester for different things. You can unplug a glowplug, and hook that wire to the 24v test light. ground the housing. If it doesn't light up (with good bilb and connections), then the plugs aren't on.
The lamp won't go out with 571 connected to a ground. 571 runs from the lamp to the PCB. 27 ties into the gauge cluster. You eliminated the PCB from the wait lamp operation.
Yup. I get stuck in the house with covid. I only read HMMWV forum, because I have one. I have no business on a CUCV or Deuce forum. I don;t have those.
For some odd reason, I don't want my engine running with full hot glow plugs for 7-10 seconds. Maybe it is just me. I don't start mine until the WAIT light goes out.
A is wire 54 that splits to 583 that ends up in pin 6 on the GPC or TSU.
B is wire 459 that runs to pin 3 on the GPC or TSU.
If you have no continuity between A and B on the end of the engine harness, Just unhook the GPC or TSU and check it for continuity between 3 and 6. If it works there but...
If you are following the flowcharts in the TMs, there are lines that run to the right of the flowcharts (from each step). Go to the next page and rear for more details. It tells the reason for each step and may give the proper volts.
the lines i described make more sense when you have the real...
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