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Hope it’s on the first floor too! HAHA

I noticed the same pictures as an EBay seller

I checked the torque after making a tool; all seemed to be good there. It seems to still seep some oil from the back area. Coolant is not dropping, and the power still seems to be there. I have everything ready to check compression; so maybe some day I’ll get around to that; as a just in case

I have only driven the truck that one time after rebuilding all (6) injectors. I couldn’t tell much as for power differences/drivability. I AM still getting that black’ish sticky residue near the #6 exhaust manifold/port. I have since acquired tools for compression checking. So that will be on...

I have NOT checked the torque, but I did have a set of (6) injectors that I found super cheap locally, they are the shim style. I’ve been soaking them for a few days now, disassembled, all (6) needles were stuck. Got everything freed up and put them on the pop tester. (4) chattered around...

I just looked, it is a “TD”

I’m not looking for added power or to add any power, I’m just saying changing out to different head studs for added strength, and possibly helping some head gaskets stay together longer. For a few hundred dollars, it may not be a bad investment while you’re already in there…only curious

Just curious if anyone has taken the time to cross reference something like ARP head studs vs the originals. I just know when I built a few of my own engines back in the day, I always tried to swap any and all fasteners that were available for that engine over to something like “ARP” for the...

Well, here’s my rendition on the tool; damn near exactly 1” off set. Like posted above, but maybe not as pretty, HAHA I’m sure it may need some extra grinding here or there, but it’s a start…

Thanks! Looks easy enough

After doing some reading, it looks like I need the “special” head bolt wrench. Anyone have one to sell? Or know where to find one? Or a good link that shows a DIY I could make? Thanks

I agree, I am currently running… 65% wmo 20% diesel 15% gas About $1.85/gal when said and done

Ill put a torque wrench on them probably tomorrow; I have a few other parts to install also

Picture1: which is what I first found and started all this. I then cleaned, and went for a drive. Picture2: Found this the next day, it reappeared.

It takes a few extra cranks to get her started, but I also blame that on my wmo/fuel mixture. As for smoke, it has never seemed to puff extra smoke. It does puff a little blue because of my wmo/fuel mixture, but has never puffed any “extra” when reving or driving hard that I have noticed...

In the meantime, I would also like to thank everyone and the knowledge shared here. We all kinda know things, but it’s always that one rare case that someone somewhere has dealt with that gets shared As of now, the valve cover gasket areas are 100% dry.

Every time this truck gets started it’s driven, but there’s literally only been one time I drove/creeped it 2mins to my barn and shut off. Other than that, I start the truck, idle for 5-10mins then drive it, usually at LEAST 25miles if not way more at a time. I pulled the #6 injector last...

I haven’t had the time to poke around yet; unfortunately. I’m sure this coming weekend I’ll find a few hours to get into the garage.

Ill surely take another look.

I’ll probably pull all injectors and test them. Finally got all my fittings to convert for a pop tester.