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LOL Mac, I’m always smart patooty! Yeah… it sounds like everyone is in agreement that it’s just plain old water. I feel pretty good about it with y’all weighing in.

Thanks LG - that’s the prevailing theory.

Hi Ray, I did buy it from Ritchie Brothers, but we've questioned all along whether it was DEMIL'd to Ritchie, then me, or via some convoluted path by which another private owner got it before I did. As part of the evidence of previous private ownership, the connection plate bolts weren't grade 8...

Rust in the bell housing... Greetings! What do you think is the cause of the rust in the bell housing? Note: You are looking at the rear of the Isuzu C240 engine with the main generator having been removed. You can see the starter motor peeking through at 10:00. High resolution photo here!

Hey Mister Mac... sorry to have missed this. Anytime today or tonight works. I still love you even if you occasionally call me a witch with a B! :ROFLMAO::unsure:

Hmmm... female dog, Mac? I assume you meant witch with a B and not I! :ROFLMAO:

Got'em all out! OMGosh... I don't know which is worse... the man engineer who designed this; the man mechanic who thought it a good idea to lock down the fan so the fins are over the bolt heads; or @Guyfang who sent me a stream of new potty words? Anyway, it was in the mid-60's today and I...

Agreed on shipping. I haven't been able to find them around here. I just need two with the nuts. Grrr....

Thanks @Mullaney. I was going to look this one up and post a parts wanted. I'm hoping a member has a box of them and is willing to sell a couple.

Hi Ray, both the head and the nut were 15/16. The nuts were lock nuts. I think the issue was a combination of things. I did use a 3" x 1/2 extension to give a little more clearance than was there. Up top, on the bolt head, I used the vise grip to that too, allowed for a little shock...

Surely then, you must know that you are loved!

I heated and cooled and sprayed with penetrating oil. I did it again and let it sit overnight. This afternoon, I put the LAP over the breaker bar and there... it moved. Just a little, but it moved. I did it again, and again and again. Maybe a quarter turn at a time. It was moving! After...

Yeah, yeah… that was written for 20-something men. Hello! It’s not 20-something me!!

Ha! I couldn’t disguise the LAP (Long Ass Pipe). There, I said it. Potty mouth that I’ve become from keeping company with y’all! I read about putting a block wood somewhere under there. I wrongly connected it with the engine mounts that you’re supposed to put down before you remove the main...

Jam nut. That's the word I was looking for! I can't imagine another purpose for that bolt. It's not touching the skid below it so leveling isn't its purpose.

An update... making progress on getting the old generator out of the genset. Many of you will no doubt be pleased that I did indeed expand my vocabulary! I need some ideas about how to remove the big bolts that fasten the generator to the skid. Tugging on a breaker bard was futile. My impact...

Wow! That’s fascinating. Thank you for sharing. Maybe we’ll get to see your operation the next time we travel out to the West Coast. Evvy-

Good morning @87cr250r ! Yes, 1800 RPM. You’ve piqued my curiosity! What do you use the generators for on a tug boat?

Thanks, Peter! I read in the TM that the bearing should be replaced every time you remove it (remove and discard) so I bought a new SKF for $28 USD. Cheap assurance. Good catch on the crack in the so called new diode ring on the replacement rotor. I don't want to misrepresent that generator...

It's hard to tell since there isn't any history that came with the set. The one thing that we do know is that the failed assembly wasn't made by Marathon Electric. They confirmed that it didn't carry their markings. Another member, @FLCarguy, posted a similar failure suggesting that it may be...