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LOL I'm not so much worried about the weight, but control of it. I'd hate to drop a 30-lb alternator on the water pump or plastic cooling fan after undoing the mount bolts with one hand! Maybe it can be blocked-up somehow. I haven't really taken a good look at it yet to figure it out.
If you have some overhead support available, like a thick tree branch or a beam in a barn, you could set up a comealong or some kind of hoist to help support the alternator. I might try it with an engine crane - somehow!
You can find the instructions starting on page 0012 00-8 of TM 9-2320-386-24-1-1. It goes through charging system troubleshooting for both 60 Amp and 100 Amp systems.
The instructions don't isolate the voltage regulator - they just say to replace the alternator if the troubleshooting procedure...
Maybe the voltage regulator died? I have the same problem with my truck and have yet to seriously troubleshoot it. The voltage regulator can be removed from the alternator so you don't have to spend $600+ for another alternator. The regulators can be had for under $200. Just make sure you...
My truck always clunks into 4th when I suddenly take my foot off the gas at around 30 MPH. Running it through the gears with full pedal it's a pretty smooth shift. I am still running 15W-40, though.
Sounds like a vent is clogged on the transmission. It shouldn't be shooting any oil out of...
Big Mike's sells them for $2.50 USD each: https://www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/products/right-hand-lug-nut-for-front-wheel-or-single-wheel-m35-m54-m809-m939-ms51983-2?_pos=1&_sid=f55365e8d&_ss=r
They'll ship to Canada, too.
The CTIS will work as long as there's space in the hub for air to flow from the inner wheel bearing into the hole in the side of the hub that's piped into the hollow wheel stud.
It looks like you'll have to modify or fabricate stone shields to fit around the lockout hub. You can probably do...
The TM says the wheel weight is installed after the clamp ring nuts are installed, which isn't how my truck was manufactured. If it were my truck, I'd put the wheel weight on the appropriate clamp ring stud and secure it with another nut. The CTIS stone shield is tightened only to 60-80 ft-lbs...
There should be an air valve behind the passenger-side rear mudflap. My method of operation:
1) Connect gladhand
2) Open emergency air valve
3) When done using truck air, close emergency air valve
4) Bleed air from connected hose all the way down before removing gladhand
Your truck may...
If you want to use compressed air off your deuce the "Emergency" gladhand is your friend! I keep a long air hose in my truck's toolbox with a gladhand on one end and a quick-connect on the other end, to which I usually connect a remote-locking air chuck.
My floor looked a little bit nicer underneath - just surface rust fortunately! One of these days I'll paint it. I don't take it out much and when I do it's during the summer as my "summer car" so it won't get rusty too fast :)
Out of curiosity, what's your truck's S/N?
They supposedly existed according to the parts TM. I attached 10 pages of the parts TM PDF including all parts of the winterization kits. I have no idea how easy-to-find these kits are considering not many A3s were built compared to the rest of the series. I've been lead to believe it's hard...
That looks sharp! I never thought about using a radiator hose for that. That could be a replacement for the entire duct/hose from the steering assist unit :unsure:
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