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Thank you! I got 6 nordlock washers and new 10.9 class bolts. I will torque to 166 when I get a chance. would it be ok to install the 6 bolts and have someone hold the brake while I torque it?

Im still kind of new to most of this, but what does it mean to work the splines out? Also could I have someone hold the brake with the 6 bolts in to torque the flange nut to 166?

Just worried about torquing that nut to 166 and ruining the stuff inside the diff.... bearings etc

What if I were to hold the parking brake up and bolt up the brake disc to the flange with all 6 bolts? Then torque it? No stress on the diff or drive shaft? Also the holes looked pretty good. I tapped the threads through and they're nice and clean.

Is the nut in the picture the output flange nut?

I'm going off of this chart. I highlighted what I think is the bolt

So i got the broken bolts out but removing the Differential flange. Now i am reinstalling the flange. The chart says in supposed to torque to 166-196 but that seems like too much. I'm worried that will place a lot of pressure on the bearing inside the diff. I'm talking about this bolt...

All fluids and filters have been changed. After I get the cv joint issue fixed I can move on to the geared hubs. I don't take it as anyone jumping on my case. I appreciate all the input and even criticism as it allows me to learn my truck and how to care for it. So thank you! As I get these done...

Ive owned the truck for about a year and had to do some engine work when I had an engine knock. swapped push rods and lifters on he passenger banks and the problem went away. Ive never really had to work on these until I owned one myself as I was just a corpsman in the back of one tending to...

yes sir, all of this is still new to me. I thank you for calling those out in the video. Im learning so much from everyone's input. the transfer case is being put back together to go back into the truck and I will be doing a cv/rear diff job as soon as this rain lets up.

You all have been a tremendous help! I do see the holes with missing bolts. Will get on this the next time I have a chance!

my next question is who has good recommendations on cv axle suppliers? did different models come with different cv axles? I have the m1123. is there an option to upgrade? if so to which one?

after inspecting it more, I think you gentlemen are right. i think its a cv axles.

had to work the last two days but will be able to provide more info on tuesday. there is some resistance from the yoke but i can spin it with one hand. is there an internal clutch in this diff?

Ill have to check on the status of the cv joints when I get a chance. This is all very good information and I cant thank you guys enough!

Ill have to try that after I get home. I had the rear drive shaft off and was able to spin the yoke but I have not pulled on it to see if it would pull out.

so if I have the parking brake on, its the differential and not the cv joints, correct?

yes the e-brake is holding the rotors

see thats what I thought. The front pinion will not spin freely with both tires on the ground but the rear will. I took the rear diff cover off and didnt find anything looking out of the ordinary. I would have expected to see busted gear teeth or something.

just tried to spin the front yoke and it wont move. wont budge a bit. but the rear one I can freely spin. so Im thinking that the only reason why I was able to get home in HL is because I was front wheel drive due to the front and rear interlocked.