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I don't see why not if it will hold.

If the flange is run "loose" it will damage the splines between the output shaft and the flange, it will also leak and eventually fail. I would also highly recommend you get Nord Lock washers to use on the flange (6X10mm each shaft) and the hub end of the half shaft (1X3/8") They are a very...

Not going to happen, that flange must be tight or it will "work" the splines out.

Also you will need to fab a tool to hold that flange by those threaded holes, do not try to torque it "through" the diff by trying to lock the input shaft etc. EDIT, of course you would never use an impact on this flange nut removing or installing, beating the crud out of the differential...

Yes it is, you probably should replace that flange, it is unlikely none of the threaded holes were damaged. A little extra time here and you could save allot more work in the future.

Looks right to me, the torque does not set the bearing preload, the bearing should not be in any bind by doing this otherwise something is wrong.

Do not think I am jumping on your case but there is allot of maintenance that you are way behind on, those bolts should have been checked when you inspected/replaced the geared hub spindle locking retainers which is the first thing you do along with changing all the filters and fluids and...

Also you need to be more observant , those missing bolts should have been easy to spot

You need to inspect that half shaft closely, any out of round (wallered) holes in the flange, bad.... ALSO and cracks splits or tears in ether of the boots, bad....

No

It would be possible to turn the pinion shaft with the P brake on if all the bolts were missing from one of the inboard CV joints. But that should be pretty obvious. If you did shear a pinion the input yoke would certainly have some slack in it (in/out)