Search results

ha!. i want one. these were responsible for what we terms is a 'chauffer's fracture'..........painful wrist condition when that crank pops back on your wrist and breaks it.

So here is what I have in summary based on everyone's input........ * Shut off solenoid (electric shut off = ESO) is reliable and rare to fail. * Solenoid operates with the cold advance solenoid within the housing and is cooled with diesel fuel in a low pressure of 3-4 psi compared to 350...

BTW I appreciate everyone indulging me. I understand I may be only one interested in this and I apologize if this is annoying. I have learned a lot that otherwise I don't think I could have on my own.

Here is schematic. The shut off solenoid is fed off pin "A" on the engine harness from the control box and it is shared with circuits to fan delay/fan control as well as 'logic' on glow plug control. Don't know where that 'nexus' is though.

If I did it this way I would have a manual shut off in line so in the event there was no power or the solenoid failed you would just cut off the fuel. Given this would be rare it shouldn't harm the IP. Agree that it likely needs it's own circuit.......could just tap off the always hot wire on...

Do you know where the wire originates that goes to the normal solenoid? Does it come from the 'run' switch? That way I can use that and tap into 24V locally and create the momentary switch. Doesn't seem it would be complicated to do that everything else aside.

Ha! I'm trying to stimulate you to invent a kit similar to the camobox (which is excellent) that I can use to get rid of my solenoid. I clearly hate solenoids......even more than hemorrhoids.

Here is a great youtube video demonstrating how the fuel is delivered and explains the fuel shut off a bit. Interestingly it mentions that if the 'return' is blocked or plugged that the engine will stall as the pressure equalizes on both sides of the pistons. It's also interesting to note...

I understand you would have to 'rewire' to use a momentary switch or button. Do you know where that wire goes? Back to the run switch?? Or the starter box??

It does appear our systems have the triangular piece that would allow using ETSO solenoid. Pics below. Here are some pics from a thread discussing this mechanism. Credit of the pics to this thread linked here. https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=205666 Pic 1: solenoid with the...

"8" are you certain our pumps have that triangular piece that the ETSO solenoid needs?? I've attached diagram from your PDF.

Well then this was worth it LOL! Thank you "8". Unless someone can give a reason why not to use ETSO I will likely switch to it. BTW the only reason I am bringing this up is I was planning on changing the OEM solenoid as the truck is 20 years old and just thought it prudent. This is partly...

I don't disagree. I'm still glad I asked the question as I've learned a lot and understand this part much better. Don't see how it would dangerous. Only way it would turn into a runaway is WITH the solenoid and IF the solenoid is installed with the lever malpositioned. This is how it exists...

There are these devices made for semi-trucks in case of “runaway” from engine oil feeding the engine combustion in which the only way to stop is with “stall” the engine or cut off air. It is manually deployed by pulling a cable. The butterfly is spring actuated. I’ve thought of adding this...

For me it’s not just about removing one wire. It’s removing a component that “can” fail and strand you. Ideally if there was a way to make it work it would be better. I didn’t understand this part of the system but thanks to all of you I now understand this much better. It’s clear that...

"8" thank you for that link.......probably the best description of how the shutoff solenoid links and interfaces with the IP. Just great. Thank you.

If the solenoid was removed couldn't you still shut down the engine by shutting off the fuel line going from the filter? (between filter and IP). The fuel filter is right behind the dash/gauge panel. The fuel line runs from the filter to the IP. Install an in line manual valve in the area...

If I simply remove the solenoid will that allow fuel to flow? looks like solenoid default position is fuel off when solenoid off and there is a spring that holds lever. With solenoid energized it looks like it pulls lever off valve. That would seem that removing solenoid altogether will allow...

Here is schematic of IP. Looks like 19 is hose bringing fuel from filter and 13 is check valve with 10 hose for fuel return. So the hose loop/manual valve would have to be spliced into 19 somewhere??

Where would you put the check valve and why do you need it? I picture the solenoid/fuel disconnect essentially the same as a manual cutoff. So why is the ball valve necessary?