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Thank you! This is great information. I think the civilian alternator idea could be something I would entertain in the future but would need guidance on the load balancers and voltage regulation.

So everyone was right it was the regulator. Underneath the epoxy was all cracked. I replaced it and bang...28volts all around. Can the n3118 work on the hmmwv?what other dual voltage units work on our trucks? Any upgrades? The new one is a n3135 from an 1151

update: 1. both batteries together are at about 25v. 2. big red on the alternator is registering about 25v with truck on and running 3. 28v on regulator is registering about 25 with truck on/running. 4. accessory on the regulatory is registering about 12v with truck on/running. 5. 14v lug on...

The regulator is 10-12 at the 14v post

Update: Generator: testing at 18-25 and change with the truck running. Regulator: testing at 10-12 and change with the truck running. Will post videos of the tests.

1. Yes the charging system did work on this rig for about 2.5 years. 2. You are correct sir, the regulator it remotely mounted. 3. Regulator: when the engine is off, the yellow post on regulator registers the same as rear battery. 4. Both batteries: When engine is off I register about 24v...

Do you test at the large cable on the generator? And this should be 28v or greater?

Thank you sir for this insight. I have since shifted my suspicion of the culprit. I think now that my batteries are either not getting charged due to a faulty regulator/generator. I am now respectfully requesting guidance on testing regulator and generator sir. everything has been working great...

Thank you for this information sir. as it turns out, I am draining both batteries, not just the front.

Alright guys, I have an update. Id like to first express my gratitude for everyone's help with this issue. Any pf you that chimed in and need a couch to crash on in SD, You are welcome and Ill make you my crispy fat rib eye. Update 1: 1. I disconnected all the peripheral circuits. 2. I tested...

It is a 4spd. The audio has been switched off.

It is the front battery. This time I switched it around to see if the same issue would effect the "good" battery. The issue is effecting the front battery. Bottom arrow is positive towards the sound amps. The top arrow I don't know. The wire free floating with the blue shrink wrap is from...

A: is the cable that goes to the hot post on the voltage regulator. this is typically attached tothe positive terminal on the rear mounted battery. B: is the negative which also has the ground for an alpine sound device. C: This is the shunt that was cleaned and detailed.

1. it is an M1123. 2. This is a 4 spd. 3. I apologize for being ignorant, but what is cb1 and cb2? very respectfully,

1. I checked the wiring from under the passenger seat to each appliance and they appear to be in good conduction. 2. I cleaned the negative terminals where they attach to the shunt. all of them are clean and have good wires. 3. The truck does not have have ancillary circuits to cause a draw...

- After I replaced the battery the first time, the truck was shifting fine. when I replace the battery, the truck would start just fine: Light comes on then off. then it starts but there is a hesitation. Everything functions just fine. truck runs strong and shifts through the gears. Ill have...

So my battery towards the front of the vehicle went bad. I replaced it with an optima red top. and in 4 days, that went bad too. The battery towards the rear is ok. Observation 1: I noticed that while connecting the batteries with the key out of the ignition and ignition in off position, it was...