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I am using both a DMM and an analog unit. That is the best I can do. The analog is showing me the fluctuations whereas the digital is only showing me that it is changing and hits P2P. I only wish I had an o scope. I cannot afford a decent one. LMAO.

I think that there maybe more going on here than just a "simple fix". I think the first thing is get the alternator to supply power. To do that, I have to fix the HVCO situation indicated by the Red LED of the regulator. With the correct voltage now on the "E" and the regulator telling me its...

Yes it does drop to 0. The voltage at the "E" terminal on the Voltage regulator is 26.4 - 27.8. According to C.E. Niehoff, the high voltage cut off set point 28.5 Volts. The Regulator is activating the cut off when the correct voltage is there. it is doing the same thing on the 12 Volt side...

spot on with the grounding. Somewhere along the way prior to me getting it, someone removed a few of the ground straps. Including the ones from the (-) battery to the GND of the alternator and from that same ground point to the frame. Settled all the numbers right out so I could find the cause...

Update: so after going through the drawings and finding no reason why my voltage should be dropping out (a major clue in itself) and listening to many of you on here, I am trusting the readings and going with a bad voltage regulator. Finding no discontinuity in the wiring, voltage where and what...

I am sorry Yes I did get that information. At batteries I have 12.7 and 25.4. at the PCP I have 12.3 and 25.0 It is just me so starting and measuring are proving difficult at the moment for the other readings.

I will be taking the shunt out of the equation next. and probably replacing grounding straps to eliminate that as a possible problem. There are a lot of those straps.

OK so a little update... I ran all the 12Volt terminals together and all the 24 volt terminals together. No change. I looked for a cannon connector but was not able to see one. Does that mean it is a polarity protection device and not an LBCD? I ran a wire from the battery to the to excitor...

After climbing up in engine, it is indeed a 3116. Big white label on the valve cover.

OK so a little update... I ran all the 12Volt terminals together and all the 24 volt terminals together. No change. I looked for a cannon connector but was not able to see one. Does that mean it is a polarity protection device and not an LBCD? I ran a wire from the battery to the to excitor...

The entire engine is yellow

So much help and great ideas to go to. I wish I had known of this website sooner. You guys are just awesome. Thank you.

Well, I guess that fits me. LOL. A0 idiot light annunciator panel??

Gotcha Suprman, I will disconnect the CTIS wire from the E terminal on the voltage regulator and run a temporary hot 24 volt wire and see if it drops out.

According to the numbers, it’s a 3116

Great. So how can I tell the difference. Electrical worker to the rescue again.

According to our mechanic, it is a 3208 Cat.

For the positive wire, should that be on the 12 Volt or the 24 Volt side?

The M35A-2 is so much easier to work on.... 24V that's it, electrically its easy. Until someone tries to shove a 12Volt dome light into it. Man that thing was as bright as the sun...until the dome melted. Should have been there first clue........

Not really sure to be honest, How can I tell them apart? I was told to handle the electrical part, the mechanic would take care of "engine stuff". LOL. When both are integrated as they are on this beast, I am not sure where that dividing line is. So I go until I am happy with the results.