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OK I understand now, thanks. I usually keep my bench test batteries topped off so my alternator doesn't stall out my test motor. I will drag them down a little bit and then re-test with a clamp meter and see if my older regulator outputs consistent current. I want to make sure I can catch a...

This is where you lose me a bit. If the batteries are at 28.8V and they aren't taking a charge, doesn't that point to a problem within the batteries? If the batteries were drawing current and the alternator wasn't producing, wouldn't the voltage drop?

I've watched this video like 5 times now, looks perfectly normal. what exactly is the problem? I tested a never used NOS '07 regulator yesterday on the bench with an identical setup to yours, and it behaves the same. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l_WHBP6oS8lKzLiPA75US29vJWc_PIAD/view

This is the test I am curious about. Simply from the standpoint of removing as many variables as possible.

Previous to cleaning the regulator to alternator connection, weren't you getting OVCO on the 28V side? Now that problem has migrated to the 14V side? You deleted 2 of your 4 batteries right? I wonder what would happen if you completely removed the alternator from the truck wiring, and cabled it...

Oh that’s great to hear! As far as I can tell there is no memory in there. On the test bench I reset power multiple times to the VR and it didn’t make a difference until I messed with the VR harness.

The first thing I would do is disconnect the harness from alternator to the voltage regulator and thoroughly clean all the connecters on both sides. I just had a situation on the bench with a 100A alternator that was unstable holding voltage with pulsing spikes and I swapped to a new VR which...