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You should have seen the difference in the volt meter. If it charges when cold then drops off as it gets fully warmed up that could be a bad regulator. You may still have poor connections, have you checked the positive connections where it goes through the battery box bulkhead on both sides? The...

Glad it looks like an easy fix, that was one of the connections I was talking about. The cable on the other side is the main ground, it goes to the starter, should even start better!!!

Another thing you can look at is the voltage from the 14V tap on the reg to ground and the rear battery when not running, they should be exactly the same..

The 14V post on the reg should be around 14.4 to ground, again not measured to any other post.

You should be looking from the terminals to ground, not to each other. completely ignore 2A for now, it is an ac signal that tells the PCB the engine is running. 568 is the alt exciter (IGN) terminal, it should be 27-28V or so to ground when running. If you are getting 28.8V at the alt and 26.7V...

It would be helpful to give the wire tag numbers/post ID on the connections you are quoting on the regulator, you seem to be seeing one more post than I remember. You should have much closer to 26V on the IGN/Sense (wire tag 5A) the larger of the two small posts on the reg. Check it again with...

Since you have the batteries out after you get them load tested put them in in the opposite position they were originally in, if they check out OK. It looks like the alt is under charging at 26.7V but get the batts tested first then go back and look at the charging voltage. Check the voltages at...

The way they are connected looks fine. Do you have a working trans light and if so is it off when the engine is off?

Test the voltage with the truck running, the voltages you state must be with the truck off. If they are close to even when running you may have a battery issue, if you do not have a battery load tester any auto parts store can test them.