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Not too bad of a deal. Let us know how those shocks check out. :driver:

Yes, I meant the drag link. And bearing pre-load is a fancy term for how hard the axle nut squeezes in on the bearings. Too much bearing pre-load equals hot hubs after a long drive. I'm pretty sure there's something in the TM about how tight the axle nuts should be. :driver:

OK Guys, I think I figured it out. Think this one over and see if it makes sense to you too. Bad shocks will cause excessive outer tire wear because when the suspension compresses at higher speeds (don't laugh) because as the axle comes up, the angle of the link from the pittman arm changes...

OK Blue, silly question: Have you checked your front bearing pre-load? If you've got any play in the front hubs, that could cause it. I don't understand how old dead shocks can cause off-center tread cupping like that. I'm stumped on this one! :???:

Right on Blue, a good friend of mine has been an OTR driver for years and according to him, as long as you're between 1/8th and 1/4th inch of toe-in, you should be fine. How much toe-in did you have before? That's about what my front tires looked like with 2 inches of toe-in after my 580-mile...

No problemo! I've done a bit of study of geometry dealing with choppers (bikes, not helecopters) as if the front end geometry isn't correct, the bike will handle like doo doo. Some people have a head for geometry and some others it makes smoke come outta thier ears! lol [thumbzup]

Think of your basic geometry. Your basic 9.00 NDTs are around 37 inches tall depending on wear and pressure. that's 18.5 inches from the center of the axle to the outside of the tread. The rim is 20 inches in diameter, making it 10 inches from the center of the axle to the outside of the rim. If...

I'm with ya. The corner cut is tricky, but once you establish the center of tread on each front tire, the trick is to hold your marking devise steady while you mark the entire circumference of the tire. Then you don't have to keep jacking and turning your reference marks as it takes a few tries...

The TM says to make a mark in the center of the tread on each front tire and jack the wheels to turn the mark from front to rear and back, but it would be easier to mark the center of tread, lift the wheel, spin the tire and mark the center tread line all the way around so once you set it down...

Basically, you wanna measure from center of tread to center of tread at 3-O'clock and 9-O'clock when looking at the front wheels from either side respectively. The measurement in front of the tires should be 1/8th inch shorter than the measurment behind the tires, hence "toe-in". I used a pic...

Basically your tie rod is just like a turnbuckle you'd use for tightening the chains that hold a cabover camper on a pickup. You turn the center (rod) one way increases the distance between the ends, and turning it the other way decreases the distance between the ends. I found when adjusting the...

I used a tape measure (with the wife to hold the little end), a 15/16" socket and ratchet, a 6" crescent wrench, and a 12" pipe wrench to adjust mine. Didn't jack it up, just made the adjustment on level ground. Got her dialed into 1/8" toe in and it only took me 3 tries! WOO HOO! :driver:

That's what I needed to know! I was looking through the index for "Alignment" when I should have been looking for "Toe-in". :drool: Thanks Dave! :beer:

So I got a little curious when I noticed more wear on the outside of my left front tire than the inside. The right tire is not too bad, but I grabbed a tape measure and had the wife hold the end to the right front tire and I measured to the left tire, then took the same measurement on the rear...