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Yeah, I have much better performance in the naturally aspirated engine.....the intake manifold is wider and the airflow slower. It's possible that the intake manifold for the turbo with its smaller cross section and faster air flow simply snuffs out the flame.... A tenth of an inch is 100...

If the battery voltage drops below about 22 volts (into the red zone of the gauge), stop cranking or you may burn up the starter too. I have noticed that there will be an air pocket in the lines whenever the truck sits for a week or more, it may be a good idea to always bleed the fuel lines...

Nope, it's homemade. http://imageevent.com/cranetruck/flamedetector

Since it's difficult to tell if the flame heater is actually working, I put together a monitoring device, shown here. It turns on a light on the dash when a flame is detected. Squirting raw fuel into the intake manifold is not helping if not lit....

For me it's more of having working systems on board. I find it challenging and a learning experience to get some of those special devices to work. For example, I don't exactly anticipate ever to use the fuel burning coolant/engine heater "for real", but love to work on it and finding the...

The spark plug is grounded via the spark plug cable...make sure it's okay by testing it when unscrewed so that you can visually observe it. Gap should be 1/10th of an inch.

....the coil works in conjunction with a vibrator circuit (all built into the cylindrical housing), so the result is a continuous spark action at the spark plug...image below is the result.

RE: Re: Cold Start Switch on lower left dash The momentary contact toggle switch is the same for the "flame heater" and the ether start system. The original cold weather starting system is the intake manifold heater, which uses a spark igniter to keep a mist of diesel fuel from a nozzle...