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I was going to do that aswell but I am going to flip the hubs here in July so I decided I would do it all then. This was just to stop the leaks and repack the bearings. D

Thats why I used 6 ton jack stands. Thats 24,000# capacity. And I only jacked one axle at a time. I think that is more than sufficient. And then I used a 10 ton low boy jack to jack it up. Whatever works, that works safely. D

Yea 90% of the time that is the only problem, the key way leaks. I've got 50 miles on it since I fixed it and still no leaks. D

I didn't replace the seals. I just replaced the cork keyway deal with RTV. And the hubs were only warm to the touch after driving 10 miles at almost 60 mph. That was with the bearing torqued to 50 ft. lbs. while someone was spinning the hub and then backing off 90 degrees. D

You will need a 1 1/2" socket for lug nuts, then a 1" square socket for the bud stud/lugnut thing. You will need a 3" 8 sided socket (Napa or Oreilly P/N KD2445- KD TOOLs brand) for the spindle nuts. 3/4" socket for the axle flange nuts. And a chisel or punch to bend the teeth on the lock washer...

Make sure you have a big impact. And some PB blaster. I had a few lug nuts not wanna come off. I actually had to get a torch and heat 4 of them up to get them off. Other than that it went real smooth. Oh and a big torque wrench to crank out 325 ft. lbs. for the lug nut torque, 90 ft. lbs. for...

:) Just wanted to say I pulled all the hubs off of the rear. I cleaned the shoes, bearings, hubs, and drums. Repacked the bearings and gooped up the keyways to hopefully prevent them from leaking again. It really wasn't that bad of a job with the proper tools. Took me and one other guy 4 hours...