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No, the buss on the passenger side is the 24v bus, and I was referring to the 12v buss. As for the measurement you are getting between, what I assume is the 24v buss terminals, there is and/or was a noise filter capacitor tied between the + and - side of the 24v buss. Also, there could be a...

Disconnect batteries, remove and disconnect voltmeter, connect it directly to a power source, such as the batteries and verify if the gauge works. If it does, then start tracing the wiring to the gauge. Remember that the gauge is *supposed* to have 24v at *ALL* times, but the ground connection...

I keep seeing variations of this statement here, and I think it leads to some confusion. While technically correct, one should consider that in the CUCV battery cable wiring scheme, the negative terminal of the rear battery and the positive terminal of the front battery are connected by the...

I'm glad you found the problem! Faulty new parts are not all that unusual, especially if they are made in certain areas of the world. The problem is remembering that and not assuming the new part(s) "must be good".

Have you driven it? Did you bump the throttle to bring it off idle to get GEN 1 going? Mine always takes a good throttle bump, or driving, to get the GEN 1 & 2 lights to go off. I think it is even mentioned in the TMs.

Both GEN1 and GEN2 are, in stock form, isolated ground alts. Only GEN2 MUST be an isolated ground alt. Perhaps he meant that it was "positive ground" in that GEN2 takes its ground reference from the output of GEN1? Was GEN2 tested? Was it rebuilt? Rebuild kits can be bought from places like CUCV...

I think you are describing the output for the tach buffer connection that goes to the diagnostic port.