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Another way to think about it is, air pack rebuild kits are cheap on ebay. I'd just rebuild both the M/C and airpack. That way you know the system is correct.[thumbzup] I'd even do wheel cylinder kits (they are $5-6 ea).

That's another great reason to get the bleeder, you can put pressure in the system and see where it is leaking.[thumbzup]

He said he has no visible fluid leakage. The quantity of fluid in the M/C will not fit in the boot, so where is the excess fluid? Also the airpack is what gives the boost but it can leak internally hiding the fluid. He says it's bled right and no visible leaks.....2cents

Well you need to figure out where the fluid is going first. If it's not a wheel cyl or the Master cylinder, my gut says air pack. I believe if it's leaking internally you can pull the NPT fitting out and confirm the bypass. I have never had that problem though, hopefully someone who has can...

Check the inside of each wheel for a leaking wheel cylinder-leak should be obvious. If there aren't any and no leak at the master cylinder it is probably leaking internally from the airpack. You will probably find the leak though. You bled it at the air-pack first right?

Was the system bone dry or was there fluid in the system? Did it work before? Did you use a pressure bleeder or do it the old fashioned way? There aren't any visible leaks right (aren't losing fluid)? I couldn't get mine to bleed right without the power bleeder.