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the only thing you would gain by bending the bar is aligning the rod ends a lil bit, there is still plenty of travel left in them (this truck has seen air time). You would not change the bump steer (which is still minimal) and would make it a pita to adjust. The 1028 has much less of an angle.
Sorry guys, i didnt make it home in time to get pics of the 1028 crossover But i was able to take a few of one of the others (12in lift) I built a raised arm for this one but it gives you an idea to help wet the whistle. It has a different rod end up top but its all we had at the time.
What is WAY off? you do NOT want the pinoin to be straight with the drive shaft.
There are 4 boults that attach the crossmember to the frame, they are about 1.25 inches longer than needed and have a spacer to take up that extra. The bolts go from the bottom up and the spacer is on the nut...
LMAO !!!! just looked at ORD's crossover steering $440 :shock::roll:............... Wait till you see my "LOW-BUCK" pics from mine tomarrow.......Man i cant stop laughing. Its actualy the first time i looked at an aftermarket kit, Kind of hard to belive being the first one i did myself was...
The lift alredy has a shim in it, springs or blocks. Us dumb chevy ppl figured that one out when we designed the lift. lol.
One common thing on the blazer is to take the spacers on the trans crosmember and move them from atop the frome and place them between the crossmember and frame.
here a few pics of the peices, I only get about 1 hour after work to do stuff before it gets dark so i will have to wait to get more pics of it installed. You can use the original Tie rod ends you removed for this to save a few bucks (if they are still good)
Parts needed,
-94-02 dodge truck pitman arm = $5-15 Junkyard
-Aftermarket steering arm Blank or finished = +/- $50 Ebay
-Drag link (tube style adjuster not split collar) from 80's chevy 4x4 = +/- $10 junkyard
2wd gearbox from 80's chevy truck (or if your good you can use the sector shaft...
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