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FWIW, the surge brakes on my trailers don't seem to do much in reverse... I believe they are designed so you don't need to lock them out to back up. With the lift and tires you are proposing, you may not need to drop the hitch at all... Sounds like a fun project!! Sent from my ADR1776 using...

Electric brakes are no problem for occasional fresh water crossings. If you're live in the rust belt the pivot pin for the magnet arm will seize eventually though... FYI, electric trailer brakes do not work in reverse, so no better than surge brakes in that respect. Both my trailers have surge...

After towing my trailers with pintle hitches, vs the trailers I have with ball hitches, I'll take the pintle every time. I only notice any "clunking" from the hitch on the tightest turns when backing, or when the trailer is totally empty going over rougher terrain, and even then, it's not bad...

I like what you've done!! FYI, the rail you are talking about drilling up through is steel, not aluminum, and it's pretty thick... I think I'd just drill and tap it for two 1/2" bolts per side and call it good. [emoji4] Y'all have to remember, these trailers are rated to haul their max...

Yup, CL. Got $800 for 4, but only 300 for 2.

Yeah, huck bolts aren't pop rivets. The tool that sets them is hydraulic and very expensive... much easier to trim the bottom. Good luck!

I'll get a few pictures of the latest one. I can tell you that you'll need a plasma cutter to chop aluminum, though a sawzall would work if you're really dedicated. (The aluminum is soft) There are rivets (Huck bolts, actually) holding on the brake lines and cables that you'll need to remove...

Third time is a charm!! I lowered another one today, and it's even better than the first two! (I can do it start to finish in about 5 hours now, by myself.) The other two are lowered 2-1/2", and the second one I did I also slid the axle forward 1/2", which worked out well. (More shock...

There should be a tag on the axle, right in the middle. It says 4300lbs on every trailer I have. If that really is the limit, then it's based on the durometer of rubber in the suspension... Every other part on the axle is the same as axles rated up to 7000lbs... I think realistically, it...

Huh?? I got rid of the bead locks, and so did contdevelop. ?? I highly recommend it if you're just dragging the thing around as a utility trailer. I sold a set of four for $800, and two for $300, so I just about paid for all three trailers by selling the 37's!! :) I'm now running GM "PYO"...

I think he meant to be, but for what you are asking, he has a point... You may have the wrong trailer. I've pulled mine with my 4.0L Wrangler, and they're just too dang big! (Too wide at least!) Really this trailer is even wider than my full size truck, so it's just too much for my Jeep to...

I just edited the first post to add some pictures of the finished product underneath, and a side shot showing the wheel opening. (I moved the axle forward 1/2" on the second trialer, and I'm doing that on all of them from now on! :)

?? Uh, you guys are killing me. I went to the manual first, and it's CRAP. Normally I'm the first to suggest a person RTFM, but in this case, we need to find the guy who wrote TFM and smack him upside the head. :hammer: (I know we're not suppose to use texting shorthand on SS, but...

Well, working on lowering the 2nd trailer. I am moving the axle forward 1/2" too, to help with shock length, but it turns out this trailer has shocks that compress completely, so it probably wouldn't have been a problem anyway. Perhaps I'll swap shocks between the two. (Both are 2009...

Easy there. Check your post. You said back off 20%. That's a lot different than 20 degrees. (20% means if you tightened it to 100 ftlbs, you loosened it to 80ftlbs, which is still wrong...) While 20 degrees might be ok, it also might not... What we're all after is no preload, and that's...

I normally agree, but in this case, the TM needs a little clarification. If you tighten the bearings to 100ftlbs and then only back off until the cotter fits, or just install the cotter, you're running the bearings with a LOT of preload. Probably in the realm of as much overall load as they...

Hmm. Here it is, right from the TM: While turning the hub/drum slowly, tighten the spindle nut (3) to seat bearings. Back off the spindle nut as required to align the cotter pin hole. Install a cotter pin (2) and bend ends to secure the spindle nut (3). I guess it's completely open to...

Thanks! I forgot to mention that I had noticed both hubs on this trailer run warm. There seemed to be a lot of drag on both that wasn't the brakes. Popped the caps to find that the bearings were cranked right tight. Probably torqued to around 50ftlb. I loosened both sides and then did my...

Greetings! I'm going to use these trailers as a base for brush fire units, and using a 12" riser for the hitch just isn't a great option. Of course the first thing I did was to pull the runflat 37's and toss on some 285's. That brought the hitch down 2" or so, but it's still too high. In...