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Update, he found out this may not work. 4 bolt mount pattern is different. Symmetric on MW, not symmetric on this particular P-7100 pump. Guess this one goes to eBay.

Here are pics of the outbound pump. Connectivity looks near exact same as MW, regarding fuel inlet, outlet, bleed screw, mounting, etc. Noted differences are pump oil supply fitting (block side of pump), shut-down solenoid (just bracket in this case, needs 24v solenoid), possibly governor...

TBD, we’re about to find out. They look nearly the same, inline pump made by the same company, so maybe just a matter of the nut thread type. Even of mot, Cummins civilian on-road 8.3’s use P pumps, so lines are available and probably not expensive. This will be interesting to watch, I hope it...

Going to send him the 5.9L P pump to try. If works, then pay. Also going to pre-cut a mounting gasket for him to seal off the oiling port in the 8.3L timing case. MW injector lines may or may not fit, TBD. Install sequence: Rotate engine to #1 TDC (compression not exhaust), push in timing...

I have two Bosch P-7100 "P" pumps. One is off an 8.3L, and one is off a 5.9L. I am keeping the 8.3L one until I have my ISL conversion complete. I would sell the 5.9L one immediately. It came from a truck salvage yard, with a 90 day guarantee, so it should be good. The only difference...

Apology to pollute the stock 5t thread, but if you are thinking P pump anyway: I have a Bosch P-7100 "P" pump, pump driven gear, injection lines, and intake manifold cover for charge air cooler, all removed from a 300hp 8.3L (1995 Freightliner FL70 or 80 single axle box truck). I would also...

I can't believe the luck, and stamina you have. 9.8 out of 10 people here have no issues with the 8.3L. It is pretty well hardened and proven. You are on the way to knowing more about this engine and configuration than anybody else here. I see the military 8.3L MW pumps on ebay for...

Your font size will keep anybody over the age of 19 from reading your post. Ha. Congrats on your engine assembly, you have a lot into it. Don't kill the starter! Wait, too late. If you think everything is together right, prime the fuel system with the plunger up to the injection pump, crack...

Mos, It looks great. It is easy for us to throw bolts and wrenches at you from our arm chairs while you work on it and we don't. Not a lot of people here have deep dove into the 8.3's, so this is interesting. They are usually pretty robust engines, and yours has some pretty unique failures...

These ones don't eat metal, as long as you use the correct one for the material. Green for steel/iron, yellow is coarse for aluminum, and white will simply polish aluminum. They literally burn/melt any surface impurities off, be it rust or gaskets yuckies. They are not abrasive type. This on...

I find particular interest and respect those who do this on such a budget (or nearly none at all). I throw money recklessly at my truck in random spurts, it is all sitting around as parts in piles of dreams to install, which is the worst situation possible. No $, and no fun stuff installed...

Overheat usually causes both. Drops seats due to head expansion, and causes the narrow piece between the intake and exhaust valve to crack, especially if cold water was poured in with engine off and then started and sucks it in. Largest thermal difference between the two valves, across the...

I would not wait, go with another source.

Bummer, sorry. Maybe he hates dealing with shipping. I paid him up front and gave him a Fed-Ex number to ship my stuff on. No excuse, but that would be my guess.

Who did you go with?

I have not been keeping up with this thread much, but I remember seeing the retaining nut missing from your turbo compressor wheel, along with rocker arms loosening up twice and then suddenly wrecked pistons and head (unless I am getting you confused with somebody else)? You need to figure...

Will knows his way around Cummins engines better than any 10 people here. I’d take what he says over the manual. If you are still in doubt, I can send you this, just send it back when done. Magnaflux crack checker. Or buy it from your local Grainger or online, it is not expensive.

I knew you were an Aqua-Net kind of guy. Knew it.

PM sent to you, guy that buys rebuildable diesel engine cores. I bought a Jake brake setup for a Cummins ISL from him, unbeatable price, and included every single nut/bolt/washer/solenoid/wire/valve cover/etc that was needed to make it work. In several seconds, I found several used heads for...

I have 2 RFQ's (Request For Quote) out for a used 8.3L cylinder head right now for you. Should have prices for you tomorrow. Check the website I posted also if you have not already. The price should be much less than what you posted. Few members here had genuine rebuild kits for $1,000...