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If you do decide to use a zero rate, figure out your pinion angle & buy a tapered zero rate, so your not stacking spring, zero rate & shim.

There is nothing special about your rear driveshaft. Your over thinking this RETURN the rear springs (might be the right pn but wrong part). Buy a different brand of rear springs or do a shackle flip or ??? Why keep throwing money at what is obiviously the wrong setup ?

The reason I ask is aside from the "shims" I have never seen a 4in kit pull the drive shaft that far back (in your pic) Ive worked at a 4 wheel drive shop in the past. I have installed 100's of lift kits & only seen this issue when the wrong part was supplied. Is your center pin "centered" on...

Post the part #'s on the rear springs. You talk about sending the whole kit back & going with a 2in. Why not get the correct rear springs for your blazer ???? Your talking to the wrong driveshaft company's if they don't feel comfortable lengthening it or building one. Find a REAL driveline shop !

DO NOT drop the t-case. You will just be making things worse for yourself. OR if you don't care about the frt shaft, pull the t-case, make it 2wd It will make your driveshaft a lot longer & fix your angles. LEAVE the t-case alone, choose what style rear shaft your gonna go with & adjust rear...

The dodge 208's have a fixed yoke. You might try searching. OR you could swap to a 241 there are slip yoke kits for those. Fix the spring issue 1st.

Wow !!! DO NOT drive it with the driveshaft like that. I would send those rear springs back !!! Something is difinately wrong with that setup.

Wow sounds like they should send you the CORRECT parts.

You did make sure you didn't install the springs backwards ?

When you drop the tcase your "tilting" it. It makes the frt shaft point that much higher (counter productive)

DO NOT do the tcase drop it only makes things worse ! with single ujoints at each end you will want the angles same or within 1 degree.