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You care correct that your heater would see hotter temps taking coolant from the back of the heads. However it would take longer to reach that temperature and the benefit of the balancing the temps would not work correctly. In order to get the balance you need a very controlled level of flow...

https://paradoxbydesign.com/collections/cooling-upgrades/products/hmmwv-humvee-cooling-upgrade-system-v3 ;)

Norm if your system is that bad please pull off our hoses and blow them backwards (front to back) with compressed air to make sure all that gunk did not clog things up. Sounds like your truck ran with river water or worse for a period in it's past. Anti-corrosion is a good plan for a while.

A ton of rust and corrosion hides at the back of the block under the rear block off plates (hence our cooling upgrade kits) by removing those you can push water with a hose through those and get a ton of gunk out. Just make sure you buy gaskets for those before you do this (or one of our kits...

I really like to also heat the oil pans too. Both the engine and the tranny. Cold oil is not a happy thing.

You are very correct. The rear block design and the overall coolant flow pattern on these blocks leaves a lot to be desired. Of course most on here know about our Cooling Upgrade Kits to fix this. We have a blog which describes the issue in detail here...

Our latest blog post has been published. The full write up on the 6.2 and 6.5 Diesel engine cooling Paradox. https://paradoxbydesign.com/blogs/news/the-humvee-diesel-engine-cooling-paradox

In order to get individual battery voltage you need to remove the link between them and read the 12V number.

Hey guys, we have started a blog with tech articles for HUMVEE AND CUCV 6.2 and 6.5 engines trucks. Our fist article is up now. We are looking to add these at least monthly. Hope these help out a few folks! https://paradoxbydesign.com/blogs/news

Constant battle for sure. I have been replacing weather stripping with thicker materials and things are getting better. I have also added drains in the floors which is a nice add on too.

I am doing something similar with the forward section angled to match the angle of the rear curtain. I will send pics when done.

Just look for golf cart SS solenoids. They go up to 32v or 36V or so, but 24V is fine. They are like $50 each. Golf cart supply places have them.

I have run 12V winches on 24v for years. I have also run 12V on 12V and 24V on 24V. I have also changed solenoids on both 12V and 24V winches and one thing I have started to see is that many winches now use the same solenoid whether 12v or 24v. In any case I usually upgrade to solid state...

Just run it at 24V. It will run twice as fast and use 1/2 the amps. Very common for the pro off roaders to do just that.

They look good Bravojmc!

Well I guess no pics of my arsenal mounted up....

I have seen these get 'rebuilt' but not address the stress cracks in the main bearing webs and they do this very quickly.

I guess grunts arw cheaper than nutserts. I will be rectifying that in lots of places. Shifter is one. Not going to do it before I make the final 5spd vs 6spd decision.