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Any chance you could get some pictures of how they did that? I REALLY need a hitch on mine... ...since I told the wife the reason I was getting it was for a better tow rig. :D

In the rear. The D-ring shackles' mounts go forwards to the rear spring hanger setup. Notice the big rivets in the spring hangers that aren't there in the civilian models? These also interfere with putting a regular 2" hitch on these trucks. The zero rate comment of mine two posts above was...

Rear springs tend to sag less than the fronts, especially on these trucks. The fronts are actually the same application as the high GVWR diesel 1/2 tons and 3/4 tons while the rears are just about a 1-ton only pack. Meanwhile the front has a 950lb engine sitting on it and the rear has...no...

Re: HMMWV Rim Source Nice to know I'm not the only one who remembers the old days. I've seen usa4x4's efforts to rebuild his image but still am apprehensive.

Re: HMMWV Rim Source I think you mean CUCV Blazer rims. The CUCV pickups use the same 8 lug pattern as the HMMWV. Did he change the backspacing for you? HMMWV rims have a decent bit of backspacing, more so than the stock rims of GM trucks of that era.

Give them a call and ask. It can vary a lot. The problem is that your springs have sagged. You can't just "rearch" springs so that they're good as new. All you really end up with is a diminished capacity set of springs that have been forced into a more "upright" position that will sag rather...

Eh, I'm not a fan of rearching...obsolete techniques that don't last.

That's only if you lift it and go to crossover steering. I'm currently unemployed and broke so the following is just "wishes" but my plan includes: -ORD's zero rates and shove the front axle forwards an inch -ORD's front shackle kit -maybe ORD's shackle hanger kit -2" steering correction via...

You will have to adjust the stock steering's various components within their ranges but there shouldn't be any cutting, welding, part replacing, etc going on. Just wanted to clarify what I said earlier.

I talked to the owner at ORD and he says no. You'll obviously need a new alignment and to make sure the place doing it actually knows what they are doing, not just what their computer/book says. It's still the crappy push/pull steering but it should work.

No problem. One thing others have done is to drill a new hole in their spring packs 1-1.5" forwards of the current centerpin hole. This is an option if you don't want to gain an inch of lift. Keep in mind whatever you do make sure you have a good alignment place if you have are keeping the...

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm

One inch of lift would likely only help put the front springs closer to where they sat when new. 20 years of holding up a 950lb diesel have made most of these sag. Use the zero rate to space the axle forwards an inch. The front axles in 73-87(91) GM fullsizes are actually about an inch...

Man, hope they improved the tread pattern of the radials...

Wonder if that's why, even with the war going on, you can still get screaming deals on the RT/II's. Getting rid of the old spec ones perhaps? I know my RT/II's are load range C but what did they bump the newer ones up to?

Just wondering where you're getting that from? When I was in the Marines the radials had the worse reputation. They were nicer on road but that was about it. They have notorious issues stemming from thin sidewalls. The MT guys blew out a sidewall on one of our HMMWV's when they rubbed up...