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If you have a small air hammer, If you have a small air hammer, .401 shank, then you can use some chisel bits to split the nuts and knock them loose. That's what I did on 3 out of 4 on the uppers.

Correct, the slug wrench used on the lowers, (plenty of room down there), and the modified wrench on the uppers. Keep in mind I also used some air hammers and chisel bits to break the nuts lose on the upper dogbones. I won't need to do that on the lowers. Plenty of room to swing a hammer down...

I never shaved the slug wrench down. After looking at the way he shaved his, it can be done with 4.5" angle grinder, and some thin cut off disc. I plan on using the slug wrench on the lowers, so no need to shave it down for that. To get behind the spring pack I ended up modifying a 2" wrench and...

I'll keep that in mind when I'm replacing my lowers. I'm just now noticing The angle iron bolted to the bottom of the u-bolt. I like that too.

Just to be clear, I've only replaced the 2 upper dogbones to date. I haven't touched the lowers yet. I used the compression plate method on two of the bushings. The other two bushings, the ones behind the springs, I used a heavy duty air hammer with a heavy bit and long rod to knock the bushings...

I forgot to mention, modifying a wrench to fit in behind the springs was an important step. Taking an old 2" wrench, a 2-1/4" socket, some cutting disc, some ugly welds, and a flap disc did the trick. The wrench is ugly, but it worked. The rear nut took a cheater to add some leverage to breaker...

If you have any nuts that are stuck, an air hammer and chisel bit can take the place of a nut splitter. Doing this helped brake two of the stubborn ones loose. They are a little rusty after the rain, but you can see where I attacked them. The one on the right was particularly stubborn. You can...

I'm only doing my uppers at this time. I got the cotter pins out, broke loose one of the nuts (rear inside). Still working on the front inside nut, as it is frozen in place but, the bushing is loose so when I try to break it loose it just flexes alot. I'm thinking of just taking a good chisel...

If you replace your torque rod bushings, get the ones with the safety bar. They only cost a few dollars more than the bushings without the safety bar. You'll need a 2-1/4" wrench too.

I too would like to see the failed one. When that one did fail, did it separate and allow the dog bone and axle to move out it's alignment the way a stock one would? I'm curious about this.

I would feel better about this upgrade if I could see an exploded view of these torque rod ends. I would like to know how they are put together. It would be a shame if they are just pressed together. Other than that, it looks like a good.