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steering gear seems relatively tight. Now with everything tightened down and the tie rods, pitman arm, and idler arm all new, I have maybe 1/2-1" of movement in the steering wheel with the truck off before the wheels start moving. I drove it last night and steering is much more responsive than...

the castle nut is on the other end. The steering output shaft just uses a washer and regular not, not a castle nut.

So now it's getting frustrating. Installed the new Moog problem solver pitman arm. It doesn't go on very far. With the nut torqued down to 186 ft lbs, and no lock washer installed, the nut is on the shaft with only a couple threads past it. In other words about 1/4" or so further down than the...

also to consider that the military usually limits the speed soldiers are allowed to drive them. I know in Korea we had convoy speeds limited to 35mph for 5 vehicles or less, and 25mph for more than 5 vehicles. I've driven it for a while with steering system issues, including higher speeds...

I've done the string alignment method before, and read the method in the manuals. For a vehicle that lives off road as much as on, they are more than good enough. My truck does more on road time than off road, so it's worth the money to me to take it to a shop and have them do it. I hadn't...

agreed. I don't expect I will be driving it except in emergency situation until the new one comes in.

yes, I've already gone with the moog problem solver stuff for the replacement tie rod ends and idler arm. The Pitman arm I have on order from HPG is the moog problem solver version. I completely removed the nut and lock washer and looked at everything, and the pitman arm slid down on it's own...

So my pitman arm has a lot of movement on the steering box. Probably about half an inch of up and down (maybe a little more) at the center link. The nut was a little loose holding it on, so I tightened it down to spec (185 ft lbs according to the manual) That didn't really seem to change...