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Yes. I forgot about it learning shift points. Ill have to run it a little longer. The cab lock I was talking about is the one with the red pin that locks the cab down. Everything needs to be lubed next.

Got it moving and took it for a short drive. Got it to shift as high as 6th gear. The initial shift from 2 to 3 takes too long, but the rest seem to shift normal. Headlight switch is bad but lights work otherwise. Air/hydraulic system raises the cab, cab lock works, air bags work. About all...

I pulled the two ground terminals off to let it sit till I go back. I plan on going through the battery harness and cleaning all the stacked terminals. They are just setting in there for diagnostic purposes till we confirm mobility with a few laps around the compound. After that we will get the...

It was reading a needles width below 24v mark. After start, is moved to about a needles width above the 24v mark. Next trip out, Im gonna start going through the troubleshooting chart. Our battery collection is sketchy, but functional

Success! Had to pull all the Circuit breakers and relays and function test them all to make sure I didn't have to chase stupid gremlins. I finally got a 30V power supply to test the 24V relays. Got the 24v segregated from the 12v Got the four pins segregated from the five pins. Verified...

Yeah, I'm fully expecting something catastrophic. Not my first rodeo trying to raise the dead. I'm about 8 for 10. 10 for 15 if you include the motorcycles. I was encouraged by the fact that it was complete and intact. Nothing else was disassembled or missing. There is a new drivers door and...

Today's progress report... Got everything plugged back in. Put some power to it. No POOFs. No sparks. Master switch made a relay click. Trans controller fired up and gave me a N N. Tried to crank...nothing. I realized that there are at least two circuit breakers and two relays on my bench...

Started stuffing the "Franken-harness" back in the truck.

Thanks for this info...I found it. It is at the tail end of the 20-5 TM. My serial falls in the TID1 range. Im going to study up on this.

Just went through phone calls with Allison, Stewart&Stevenson, and all the allison affiliated truck service centers near me(12) and nobody knows if my trans is WTEC2 or WTEC3. Everybody pointed back at Stewart&Stevenson and they said they aren't in the truck business anymore and he tried but...

I pulled out the trans harness today. Its part number is 29509959 (WTEC2?) Heres what I have in total. Other than the main harness being from this truck, all the rest came from a spares pile purchase. I seem to be missing the VIM? And that should hook to the harness at my demilled PX33...

That's crazy. I found it on Russian language Ebay. I couldn't read the Russian text and assumed the only harness on the internet was in a pawn shop in Russia of all places Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I'm going to check with them tomorrow but all the original wiring I've found in place seem to jive with it being a WTEC II. The truck was built 02/98. I think I need all of this... And the correct PX33 pigtail that fits it to splice into the harness.

well got most of the bundle traced and reconnected. 1 straggler and the PX33 connector that was decapitated left to do. Now I need to find a VIM and trans harnesses for my WTEC2

Yeah, no kidding. I pried that plate under the wiper motor up to get it through and will reposition the wiper arms for more clearance to replace the harness. Im gonna have to dig deep to bring my soldering A-game so I don't end up with a travesty of a bundle.

I was considering that. I also considered using a STE/ICE connector to splice them...and ease re-installation. The plan Im gonna go with first is to get some uninsulated thin butt connectors to hold alignment while I tease on the perfect amount of solder and a neat fill/sheath shrink tube...

Preparing the battle space and got to wondering what material the wire is??? Stainless? Seems unusually rigid Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Update....got the PDP and its harness removed...Like gutting a water buffalo. Other than the dash cut, The only other cut was this plug in the passenger footwell. Donor plug I removed the wires and cleaned the fuel solenoid contacts and with a clean jump to 24V, got a good clunk out...

Im gonna remove the wires and clean the terminals an jump straight to ground and 24v. Ive fashioned a couple HD jumper wires that I was lacking the first try. Ive studied the Heater removal chore and plan to move that to get at removing the main wire bundle.

The solenoid didnt make any noise. But the primer pump did move fuel. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk