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It wasn't in when troubleshooting. I just put it back in today once I thought the issue was resolved. It wasn't so I yanked it back out to eliminate it as a variable.

Ok, I removed the guard dog security device and rechecked the leads to the ignition. Added some dielectric grease and... Viola!!!! The truck is now working!!!!! Thank you RW, Papakab, and DredNot for helping me get this truck running again!!!! I will order the NSS and install it once it arrives.

Made this wire and connected it to both of the 14 wires. The truck started as soon as the ignition switch was in the run position. It repeatedly attempted to start even though it was already started. I pulled the battery connection so as not to damage the starter or the ESS as that was the only...

Yes, I see two wires labeled 14. So there are two 14 wires and one 40 wire. So the two 14 wires need to be connected. Got it. I also need to see what 40 runs to.

More pics:

Welp, safe to say I have found the root of the problem. This wasn't readily visible until I walked it all the way back. Nor was the extent of the damage to the NSS. Here's the 14A connector to the NSS. Burned through completely. Wire 40 and another which I cannot ascertain it's number are also...

I have replaced the ignition start switch and now have voltage coming out of 14A when I place the switch in the run position but still no start. Now to examine and/or replace the neutral start switch. Hopefully that's the issue.

Thank you for that clarification.

" Do you have 24 volts going into the ignition switch on wire #11A? Do you have 24 volts coming out of the ignition switch when you go to "RUN" on wire #29A to circuit breaker CB2 and pin "B" of the engine connector? Do you have 24 volts coming out of the ignition switch when you go to...

Ok, I changed out my smart start box for a new one and still nothing. My remaining options as I understand them are: 1. Start switch itself 2. Engine Harness (positive power wire to the starter solenoid) Any other ideas?

You're a Genius, it kicked right over! Attached is the STE/ICE Port diagram for anyone who may need it, the diagram is reversed on my truck. Ok, so I guess this means that the start box is likely fried or wires on the front side of the connection to the starter are fried.

So... You're saying once turned ON it will start the truck? So, to be clear: 1. Take off cap 2. Insert wire into pins while run switch is in the OFF position 3. Then, while wire is in both pins, start the truck or dont start the truck?

Ok, so this step won't start the vehicle but will aid in troubleshooting. Got it.

Ok, I'll give that a shot as well. I'm unfamiliar as to where I can find the STE-ICE connector. I'll research it.

It tested good at the starter bench

So what gauge wire? Sounds a little dangerous to get down there and try to bridge 24v with however many amps to a tiny solenoid post at 45 degrees away from me adjacent to the frame. I assume this is from the large positive post to the starter solenoid correct? What position should the start...

I found that I have power on the main studs of the wires from the battery box that connect to the starter. I have the 4 speed tyranny with Park. I don't start in neutral. Is there another switch, relay, or fuse I should be checking?

I have power on the large connectors from the battery box which connect to the positive and negative studs on the starter. Shouldnt I have power on the small positive cable which connects to the solenoid? That wire drops down from the front while the negative for the solenoid is in the negative...

Yes, I have the support bracket with the hook. The batteries are good. I don't seem to have voltage under the truck needed to power the starter Solenoid.

I took the battery for a bench test and it functioned as expected in the bench. The batteries are all testing good on my multimeter.