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Put bolts back in. The vibration is taken up by the silicone couplers at either end of the charge pipe.

Under the cab pivot since it attaches forward of it to the evaporator.

I didn't add any oil - I used what the (sealed) compressor came with and am running 3.75 lbs of R134. Things that run to the cab and have to tilt with the cab should be routed under the cab hinge with all the factory air lines.

That's the correct belt. And I can assure you that even the stock military versions require that you loosen the compressor mounting bolts to get the belt on and off. Just the way they designed it.

I had to extend the wires for the trinary switch based on how I routed my wiring. Not a huge deal.

Yes the trinary switch mounts to the dryer. The receiver/dryer needs to be vertical and needs to stay vertical. It is a refrigerant reservoir and the position of the ports is important as well as there being a sight glass at the top where you can verify liquid refrigerant being present. I used...

I installed everything and did the hoses quite a few months later. The one's attached to the evaporator are the hard one's but even those aren't that difficult. Routing them appropriately under the cab hinge with all the air lines and wiring is the part that took the most time.

Existing engine mount bolts worked fine for me.

Hose parts list: Condenser parts list:

Appears to be a rubber washer. 6mm thickness, 40mm OD and 12mm ID., I bolted mine up solid without those.

Belt is 1/2" wide, 55" long. Compressor to bracket bolts are 10x1.5x110mm Upper to lower bracket are 10x1.5x30mm Condenser to frame - what you suggest should work. I grabbed what I needed from my bolt bins and didn't pay attention to size. Crankshaft pulley bolts are 10x1.5x85mm

Here's the FMTV A1 LSAC AC system drawings: Item #3 is the suction hose (low side) from the evaporator to the compressor. This connects to a 90 degree pipe with a support bracket that fits into the back of the compressor. The low side charge fitting is part of the fitting on the back of the...

It really doesn't matter...... it's a lot like an incandescent bulb - you need current flow. Same with the heater - if you want heat you need flow through the core. The direction of flow is pretty much irrelevant. It's just a radiator located inside the cab.

You can use the blower hose adapters from the heater unit so don't worry about that. You will have to bend the tabs a bit and crush them oval to get them in but it does work and in fact I had to do this on the passenger side due to the proximity of the transmission control unit. I looked in...

My only concern with that is pests climbing up into the unit. Have you called Red Dot?

They are similar to what is on the heater unit. They are the flanges that the ducts which direct airflow at the driver and passenger foot wells are attached to. In my post I made a note that you must use the duct ring from the heater unit on the AC unit for the passenger side duct since the...

It will be obvious when you pull the heater. The 4 pin connector matches the existing connector to the heater for fan power and panel illumination IIRC. The 2 pin orange and black is power and ground for the stepper motor flapper controls, AC compressor clutch, etc. IIRC the black goes to...

Here's my write up on installation thus far with all the parts from Waterloo. Definitely had the 4 drains on mine as well - had to drill out holes with a template. I just made mine from cardboard and that worked fine. I'm waiting on some official hoses and drier from Red Dot to complete the...