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The K20 coil, is in series with a set of normally open contacts from K15 and K16, and the LOP. Its not quite that simple, you need to look at the schematic. If Kurt can not write one up, when I get back home maybe I can.
2-90.1. Testing the LOP.
a. Shut down generator set.
b. Open left side engine access door.
c. Tag and disconnect low oil pressure switch (1, FIGURE 2-25) electrical leads.
d Set multimeter for ohms and connect across switch connector pins C and NO. Multimeter shall indicate
open circuit...
Testing the K20 relay.
When not energized:
Pins 7 & 4, 8 & 5 and 9 & 6 should be open.
Pins 7 & 1, 8 & 2 and 9 & 3 should be closed.
When the relay is energized:
Pins 7 & 4, 8 & 5 and 9 & 6 should be closed.
Pins 7 & 1, 8 & 2 and 9 & 3 should be open.
Keep in mind, K20 may be working right. Before pulling the relay out, connect your multimeter to K2-A and B. set the meter for VDC. Start the set. Do you get 24 VDC? If not, then the problem is someplace else.
All wires are marked with wire numbers. find the right numbe, hook it to the right place.
Also, I made a mistake. Wire #126A is connected to NC!!
Its midnight here. My only excuse.
You assume wrong. Why do you think that you have to hold the start switch up in the first place, other then to engage the starter? When S1 is held up, all engine saftys are bypassed. That meant for the oil pressure switch, that the oil pressure comes up. Then when the oil pressure is high enough...
Try looking at the door of your gen set. There is the schematics on it. locate OP, the LOP, Low Oil Pressure switch. Notice that it has two wires connected to it. Wire #143C is connected to C and wire #126A connected to NO. The TM's are your friend.
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