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Rule #1 in testing. ALWAYS isolate what ever you are testing for ohms. ALWAYS. We have all made this mistake at least a few times, (if not more). You are not dumb. Inexperanced, yes. Are you learning? Yes! And that is good.

This could very well cause much damage. I would not recommend it at all.

Morning! Roger on this post. I would look at the volt reg card. Its fixable, or if you are lucky, findable.

Getting close to my bed time.

Measure from ground to F1. Then from ground to F2. What you get?

The 5 volts at the 120 outlet can only excitation, but the main gen is not lighting off.

Hooked up or connected, the voltage should be measured there. Voltage on F1 and F2 comes from the A11.

If the hertz meter is showing 50 hertz, then there has to be some AC voltage. The meter reads from a 120 volt signal at the A2 freq converter.

Roger. What do you get at F1 and F2. Hook it all back up and unhook F1 and F2. Hook the multimeter to F1 and F2, looking for 24 volts. have someone else start the set, and you mind the meter.

Not necessary. There is 24 volts every place in the A27. You can just then go from there to pin A5-13. Or, much better idea, Hook everything back up. leave the bottom part of A27 off. Hook a wire to A5-13, long enough to come out of the A27 and have a few feet to play with. With every thing...

Why do you want to wire a switch to it?

Thats the way my old moth eaten brain remembers it.

Peter, something wrong here. Look at step d. The S) only has one plug, and that's P37. If I was in front of my computer, would look at what I assume you mean is the cable from the S9 to A27 SP/Relay box.

Stop. Before you get ahead too far. Go back to post 14. Peter asked you if the S9-1 contacts had been made. That has to happen for K5 to light off the main gen. Have you checked the S9-1 contacts. There are NOT, just one set, there are two sets of contacts. One set allows the starter to engage...

Open up the A11. See if the Volt Reg card has a burn on it. See if anything looks toasted.

No, apply 120 VAC to pins 22 & 18.

If you mean the relay, it's 24 volt

This is a very normal fault with this set. Before replacing R3, and installing the SP/Relay box, do check K7, and CR4. Its easy. apply 120 volts on pins A5-18, and A5-22. You should hear and feel the K7 click as it opens and closes its contacts. Open up TM9-6115-464-12, to PDF reader page #338...