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Now, to the VR. Long ago, in a far, far Galaxy, there were two different VR boards. One for 60 hertz, one for 400 hertz. Then the army bought an universal board. One board fits all. No, the new boards come naked. You have to remove the jumpers from the bad board when you change them out.

That's what I thought was the problem. That's why I kept coming back to checking/jumping between the two terminals. Sometimes this happens when we are both not on the same page. Not to worry. Happens to us all.

OK, two more questions. Are the A1 card wires hooked up like this: 1. P66E 2. P55P 3. P61B 4. P64A 5. P57B 6. P58B 7. P60A 8. P57C And the A1 card is supposed to have nuts on the mounting screws that go through the card, to keep the back of the card from touching the control cube and shorting...

Open the #8 post above. The schematic is better quality.

No. Its there to stop voltage going in the wrong direction.

Follow the green line. When S1 is held up, you should have 24 VDC to K3-X1. If not, then the problem is between K3-X1 and the last place you had 24 VDC in that circuit. That is and can only be CR1. Replace it. It cost less then a box of matches.

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With the S1 in the start position, and held up for all tests: Do you have 24 VDC at TB4-10? If so, do you have 24 VDC at A1-5? If so, do you have 24 VDC at A1-6? If so, do you have 24 VDC at K3-X1?

Did you check CR1?