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If you want to do it right? Do it right. Its not that hard to pull the tank. Half stepping will only get you screwed in the end.

If all of you go back to post #12, or there about, what did Uncle Guy say?

First SEE if the jumpers are there.

There is the problem. Pin #3 is supposed to stay hot. So, the switch is bad, or not wired right, or the jumper is on wrong.

Yeah. Lets see. I would jump the S17, and start it up and see if thats the problem. Test for 24 VDC before the S17, to see if maybe its a problem before S17. Then again after S17, to see if for some reason it opens up. The only things between the battery and the S17 is: L4-1 MT4-4 MT4-1 CR1...

Then I am thinking of another switch/gen set. OHHHHHHHHH, maybe it was the Mark 1, the old round one? In any case, he should take a 24 VDC reading at pin 3, durring start. Should be 24 VDC. Hold the probe longer and then let S1 go. Do you still have 24 VDC at pin 3? And yeah, S17 has fooled...

There should be on on each side, joining the top and bottom of the two sections of the switch. Can someone post a picture of the switch, both sides? Pins 2 & 8 & 4 & 6 should all be joined,

There should be two jumpers on the switch-Do not count the Diode as a jumper.

If you can, take pictures of the S1. There should be two jumpers on it also. If one of them is missing, it can give you that fault. Also, have you ever seen it work right? Or did you buy it this way?

When does the voltage come back on at the control panel?

Better said, define, "loses all power to the control panel". Turn the panel lights on, and start the set. Then Release S1. Lights go off?