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My tires were shot so I just sawzall'd them off at the sidewall. Made removal from the rim super easy:D

Ratchet strap method is best method (y) Instead of wedging 2x4s in there I just used a bottle jack to split the bead enough to make it easier to twist and center the beadlock insert. To break the bead I used a combination of a mallet, the flat end of a pick axe, and a pair of 4-ft pry bars.

I never cut any beads on my take-offs - that's a lot of wire!

Is that bead rusted to the rim? o_O Since this is the spare, I think I can understand that if it was in the regular spare tire position, with water collecting on the rim and probably soaking its way into the rim-bead interface. But this is an M35A2 involved - I don't think a 14.5R20 will fit...

I thought I saw a bead lock insert in there, but I didn't want to push it since my eyes aren't on location :p When I made my first cut in the sidewall, I cut a square in line with the turret valve so I could remove the nut and remove the turret valve, and work the tire off. That worked for the...

@ldmack3 thank you for posting those pictures, I see what you're talking about now. Although I'm a little perplexed about something: What's that part inside the tire that I circled? Is that just the inside of the tire I'm looking at?

You don't need a bead lock insert to run the 395s on the A3 rims, but they sure help with seating the tire bead when putting the rim together! With the insert, the bead is spread apart far enough that you don't have to go into the trick bag to try and get the tire bead seated since tightening...

Just an update since I got some notes about this thread this morning - I did re-use the bead lock insert. Everything went back together with a 395 tire without issue. I took the truck on the road once since and didn't notice any problems related to the warped insert. If anything, it actually...

Back to bead lock inserts... I think I figured out why I had such a hard time getting the rim out of the tire: The bead lock insert appears to be warped. Maybe the tire sitting flat could've done this? I think I can reuse it since the beads on the 395 are closer together than on the 365...

I think I see why there might be confusion over the torque values for the bead lock (or clamp ring, as the tire TM calls it). The M939A1 clamp rings only require at most 250 ft-lbs of torque per lock nut, which is almost half that required for the M35A3 rim clamp ring o_O

It seems compared to the A2 rims, the A3 rims are less robust. Each rim has a load capacity of 4000 lbs, which is much less than the tires. One probably shouldn't load 5 tons of stuff in the back of an M35A3 with these rims like the A2. That said, the rims on the front end are already...

The TM calls for that much torque on the bead lock nuts, so it's normal.

I just took a few measurements: Michelin XL takeoff 14.5R20 Tire bead thickness - 1.25" Distance between inner bead edges - 7.5" Michelin XZL used 395/85R20 Tire bead thickness - 1.25" Distance between inner bead edges - 6.75" So bead thickness is the same, but the distance between inner bead...

Now I understand what @tobyS meant when he mentioned the bead thickness. I'll have to compare them. If my stock bead locks are too wide, I might eschew them and just make sure I never air down the tires! I don't really feel like hunting for narrower bead locks. Now if I got the Continental...

Funny how 11" is 10" in Hutchinson world :p My floor jack is too big for me to work alongside it with the bead lock insert, but my bottle jack is small enough to work. Now I need to get a second bottle jack for the other side to spread the bead out wide enough all around. I hope that works...

I'm glad I saw this post. I'm finally at the point where I'm ready to reassemble my wheel. I noticed that the beads on my old 14.5R20s are about 7.5" apart, whereas the new-to-me 395s have beads that are about 6.75" apart :oops: Talk about putting the baby back in the mother! I tried for about...

I can't see why not. Run flats go the same place in tires as beadlocks do, so I imagine they'd press the tire bead against the rim too. I'm not speaking from experience - never messed with run flat inserts before.

Unless you want your tires losing air and falling off the rim when they're run at lower pressures, yes :) I believe the way beadlock inserts work is that they keep the tire bead pressed and seated against the rim regardless of tire pressure, keeping the rest of the air in the tire from escaping...

Unless you're using a CTIS, I don't think so. I want to keep beadlock inserts installed on my tires with the thought that if I have a fast leak or blowout while driving that the tire won't separate from the rim, assuming the whole tire isn't destroyed.

How much do both beadlock inserts actually weigh? I've heard 30-40 lbs.