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Have you performed any troubleshooting steps yet? Winch troubleshooting procedures are on page 0293 00-11 of TM 9-2320-386-24-1-2. Winch mechanical maintenance instructions are in the M35 multifuel manual TM 9-2320-361-34. Front winch hydraulics maintenance instructions are in M35A3 TM...

It shouldn't be a problem. The seats go into the stake pockets and all the hardware is above the edge of the truck's bed.

Looks great! Are you going to keep it in its FD paint?

I still run 15W-40 and probably will until it needs a rebuild. The shifts in my truck are pretty obvious, mostly sound-wise. I don't think it shifts much rougher than my 2012 Chrysler 200 with the motor oil in it :p When I first got the truck I thought it had a 6-speed automatic. That's when...

It'll sound like it's going into a 6th gear. Also check the tach against the speedometer - they should be moving at the same time when the torque converter is locked up. When there's no lock-up the tach needle will move up and down before the speedometer does because of the fluid coupling lag...

Seems it didn't turn to goo after all! Seems like the filters to it were plugged though, so little flow maybe it wouldn't actuate anything. Great to see this survivor working :driver:

Is this the original transmission still?

The red coolant works better with a diesel engine's vibrations, which are stronger than gas-powered motors - something about bubbles and cavitation with the water pump I think. You mentioned it got up to 3rd gear - do you have 4th and reverse? The transmission should shift to 4th between 30...

The coolant in my truck is mostly original. It should probably be flushed, but I plan on doing that whenever I get around to repairing the leaky heater core. Because of the leaky heater core, the truck lost coolant on the passenger-side floor, so I had to add about two gallons of the red...

Fortunately AT545 transmissions seem plentiful and the TMs cover that replacement in detail. I think it would be neat to pull the old transmission apart to see the wrecked clutch disks.

An alternator/starter motor shop could probably service it for you if you don't want to dig into it yourself. I just found the TM for the starter motor repair. I attached the PDF. I found this referenced in TM9-2320-386-24-1-2 General Support on PDF page 713.

I took a closer look at the rim. I think that would go on an older 5-ton since it only has ten clamp ring studs on it - probably came off an M939A1 or A2. I think the FMTV wheels have 20 studs. Looks like you have NDT, Michelin XML, and XL tires there.

The one wheel looks like it goes to a 5-ton or FMTV - ten stud holes there. Three kinds of tires there too anyway.

I don't blame you - there's no way I'm doing bearings and axle seals in a foot of snow 😛

I haven't pulled the doghouse mat out of my truck yet, but I'm not too concerned about it figuring that any moisture underneath it is going to flow down toward the floor. It's going to come out probably next spring so I can work on the tach sensor. Your floor looks to be about the same shape...

There should be a low air buzzer under the dashboard that will sound if the air pressure drops below 60 PSI - or was it 65? Can't remember right now. A low-air light should also be lit on the gauge cluster the same time the buzzer is on. While you're messing around in the cab, I suggest...

According to the LO the 15W-40 is good to -4 F to +122 F. You should be fine with running that in your motor. I'm going to put Shell Rotella T in my motor for its upcoming oil change.

I was wondering about that... With a coat of oil on everything water may have a hard time rusting stuff internally.

Maybe it was totalled by the fire dept and they got another truck 🤷‍♂️ I guess it's a thing to just let equipment sit when it's no longer desired. A local fire dept is selling a big 3-axle ladder truck that's just sitting outside right now! They do start and run it every so often though...

Yikes! If the inside of the air cleaner looks that bad, I wonder how bad the turbo is going to look inside...