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Strip it of all the good parts and scrap the block I guess. It may be weldable, but as Patracy experienced, it doesn't always work.

Yep. Mine has almost 70,000 miles on it now and I'll be happy if it lasts me until warm weather comes around again. It has served me well though. Quite a lot of blowby going on.

Keep in mind that antifreeze eats bearing metal fast. If you really have to keep running it with antifreeze in the crankcase then you will end up putting an engine in it instead of repairing it. And it doesn't eat the bearings from lack of lube either, it is a chemical reaction that pits them...

Yes it sounds like a cracked head, but it may surprise you. Coolant loss can be a real booger to diagnose properly.

Cool. Let us know what you find. If you need a motor I'm sure we can come up with one. I have a few but I'm pretty far away from you.

Ok I couldn't tell in the other pic. Get a good flashlight and let us know what you find if anything when you get around to it.

Skinny, that pic does not really help. The valve cover needs to be off to try and see the source of the steam. I'm still betting on a cracked head.

You could pull the oil pan, fill the cooling system, plug in a block heater( get one if you don't have one) then put the pressure tester on it and pressurize the system. With heat and pressure it may actually leak. This is how you can check the block for a cracked water jacket.

You need to do it again and inspect it very carefully to see where the steam is coming from. If from the head you will probably be able to see where it is coming from. If you can't see it, it is probably the block itself. Patracy mentioned that he had a similar failure.

When you shut it down, and it was steaming, did you take a flashlight and look down into the oil drain galleys to see where the steam was coming from? If so, and it was coming from far enough down that you couldn't see it then you are looking at a cracked water jacket which means a replacement...

The water jacket is the block. I'm betting on the head though.

I feel like you have a cracked head. You could pull the valve covers and run the truck up to operating temp and just observe what is going on in there. You may be able to see where the water is coming out of the crack at.

It is coming down to looking like a cracked water jacket or a cracked head near an oil drain galley from the valve train. It isn't a leak in the intake or combustion chamber because it would hydrolock a cylinder upon startup if that was the case. from the information you have given us it has...

It may be worth your time to pull the oil cooler and change the sealing O-rings. Should take less than an hour. At least that way you can eliminate the oil cooler if the problem persists.

I wish you were closer, I'd take a look at it for you.

If you are losing coolant with no apparent sign of leaks, you should warm the engine up, get up on the driver side fender, then reach down to the throttle linkage and do some engine revving while watching the radiator cap. They tend to leak there and the coolant blows around and dries up leaving...

Yes, find an overflow bottle and plumb it to the overflow line. If your line is solidly plugged, cut it above the plug point and plumb the overflow tank hose in there. It is not just a catch can if you use an actual coolant overflow bottle. You can get universal coolant catch bottles at most...