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Could be a worn engine, easy enough to compression test both cold and warm.

The dynamic timing is advanced by transfer pressure acting on a piston. It is retarded by preset spring force and the action of the face cam through the lever on the passenger side of the pump. What could be happening is the fit of the piston in the bore has worn out, causing excessive bypass...

When the engine is warm, putting power to the solenoid should make it clatter. That glass ball is a check valve, spring loaded. When the cold timing advance is energized, that pin holds the glass ball open, preventing case pressure from the spring. This loss of case pressure advances timing...

Ok, if you can put power to the cold timing advance solenoid (the one inside the injection pump) and it runs better, there is a good chance the timing chain has worn, creating sloppy timing. Or it could be a worn pump not making transfer pressure. The transfer pump pressure rises with engine...

The green wire, yes. It comes from the thermal switch, to the injection pump and then to the high idle speed solenoid. To check the cold timing advance, disconnect at the pump so you only apply 12 volts to the cold timing advance.

Injection timing? The DB2 injection pump first pressurizes the fuel to transfer pressure, 20 to 100 psi. Part of this flow is used to advance timing through a dash pot on the bottom of the pump. Since transfer pressure is a function of engine speed, a mechanical override is linked to the...