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Will discuss by PM for certain. Though for anyone interested in facts... an 802 muffler Bolts up perfectly on both sides. Hits the coolant side safety shroud, and the roof exit hole no longer lines up perfect... But they do bolt up identically.

Im about to take the roof off an 803 in a few minutes (doing return line swap) I can compare to the 802 muffler on the shelf if you want.

Here is an exact fit unit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/265121353148

Unfortunately I only have (2) 802 mufflers, with wrap. I think the primary difference is the side below the exhaust exit... that bracket hole pattern is a little bit different on the 803s (Because it spans the cylinders differently than the 802s). The business side, that mounts to the manifold...

What does your hertz gauge register? Because its doesn't sound like its running at the right speed still... it sounds underspeed.

I think I saw this unit on marketplace at a scrap yard in NJ. I think if you want the genset, you wont find prices going the other way. Nor will you necessarily find the pumps to ever be cheaper. If you are intending on getting it running, I would do so while you are still in the frame of mind...

Good running 10KWs are not cheap today. If you've never seen this run right or make power... was it advertised as such? Did you buy this private party or auction? Pick your poison.

Why dont you ask this company (they used to own Lister Petter, and are long term LP dealers) https://www.sleeman-hawken.com

I've never had to take one apart... simply letting them sit in carb cleaner and exercising them has always worked. From the document Guyfang posted a bit back, they appear to assemble in a very straight forward manner. Unless you say locating tabs or items which would help internals maintain...

That is the droop adjustment. That changes the rate at which the governor plays catchup on load shifts. I don't know if that can be messed with enough to display what you have. You may end up needing to pull that gear cover to inspect the governor linkage and all moving parts in there.

Well the injectors will limit the amount of fuel going into the cylinder, the pump can push as much as it wants, its limited by the orifice sizes in the injector. Your engines definitely got some gremlins at the present time (two do have white smoke at start). I think you may want to pull the...

I would remove the cast iron exhaust manifold and inspect the smoke color and air temperature of each cylinder. Here is an 802 I had recently worked on. The cylinder nearest the radiator was not getting fuel. Exhaust color was different, and the air coming out was cold. Before eval...

Yeah you aren't even close to the right operating RPM at that setting. I just took a quick photo of an 802 throttle position on one I am working on in my driveway this weekend... just for conversation purposes. You can see the rough gap between both set screw stops. This machine is dead on at...

I have had exactly (1) 80X machine run away from me in all the years, and it was due to a spring failure that hooks to the governor assembly. Its definitely scary.

Are you 100% sure you assembled the pumps right? The barbs all the way to the tubes will not do that. Did you mess with the throttle stops so the machine can rev significantly higher than 1800 rpm? You should have been able to manually manipulate the fuel stop solenoid closed to cut off the fuel...

With the condition you described with the original pump state, even if you freed the rack pin, you may still have a non functioning pump. They should be disassembled and soaked to get to the inside pumping mechanism.

You should be able to loosen the hold downs and rotate each barb and then tighten back down. You might need to undo the hard line attached to the top though, as it can provide downward pressure and inhibit this rotation. This range directly effects how much fuel you are allowing the pump to...

The pump arms that the larger fuel lines go into, should be as close to the push rod tubes as possible. It looks like they are closer to the cast iron hold downs than the tubes? Whats up with the fuel stop solenid? It looks broken and disassembled. Are you manually rotating the fuel rack for...

I think we understand now. Do know though the more technically correct you can be with terminology, the more common the understanding will be between those helping, and those in the future searching through threads seeing if anyone else has had the same issue as them.

Yes you want to rotate the rack pin on each pump all the way to the left and then rotate the fuel inlet barb as far right as you can go with the hose in place. The pin of course is what does the removal of fuel, and the positon of the fuel inlet barb allows the range of fuelling to be...